The year of the Destiny wardrobe - 2018

This was our year. We changed the way we think about the clothing that we wear and more importantly, the clothing that we make for ourselves.  We saw the sewing community come alive - sharing their makes, re-thinking their wardrobes and making clothes that really matter.  Not sewing for sewing's sake, but sewing to unleash our inner creativity.  We thought about how clothes fit into our lives and how they made us feel, and we sewed with intention.

Loving my Wiksten jacket with my Linen Flint Pants!
Please enjoy clicking through all photos and makes for more information :)

So many of our community came to the sewing table fresh from the RTW world, wanting to better express their personalities in a real way.  Their respective ideas and dreams about life took shape in their wardrobes.  

"Sewing is about stepping toward and becoming our destiny. The clothes we create and sew are not only for ourselves, but also have a creative impact in our world.  As we see the difference we can make, we are empowered to create even more; this is our collective destiny."

We shared our creations on social media and we watched our community grow. More and more of us focused on independent pattern designers, the champions of online inspiration.  We led the charge toward creating Destiny wardrobes, providing a platform for creation, feedback, sharing and encouragement.

2018 was a great year - each of us in our own way made an impact on the collective sewing community. On this blog, we have tried to inspire our readers to create their own Destiny wardrobe by featuring Indie patterns and amazing fabrics. I of course reap the benefit of having someone make my wardrobe - I enjoy working with my team to feature the latest Indie patterns and fabrics, all just to inspire you to sew your wardrobe. Most of the garments are displayed in the store so our customers can see a finished garment - even before I get a chance to slip them on.

For the last year and a half, I am renewed with hope for our industry and my store, Stonemountain & Daughter Fabrics, as well. Our online presence and visibility has grown exponentially. What began in 1981 and flourished through the golden age of sewing garments (the 80's), quickly began to drop away for over 25 years. It's so heartening to me to watch it come back with strength, passion, quality, and an emphasis on global community. 

What is fueling this magical renaissance? The high quality of fabrics my buyers find from around the globe, the exceptional new patterns from indie designers, and you! Yes without sewists, we would be like a library with no readers. Our Instagram community is definitely embodying the best parts of what it means to be a fabric lover and sewist. We all share, care, and support each other in our love of sewing garments and finding the next best fabric and pattern to try.

Yes we do mail order!

Thanks for reading along and following my adventures in experimenting with all the new patterns and fabric!

2019 is going to be another amazing year with so many exciting things ahead for my blog here as well as my collaboration with my team of 5 managers, 22 sales associates, and my dear friend, sewist, and collaborator for this blog, Laurel. 

Fit & Fun days with Laurel

Welcome to the world of fabric pairings! One Thursday a month, Laurel and I begin by picking out the fabrics that speak to us and the patterns that cry out to be made. Oh what a dream this is! Perhaps someday you will be able to join us in the store as we figure out what fabrics and what patterns we want to make? It really is all about access to quality fabric and learning about how to "pair" it with the right pattern for your body. 

Welcome to Stonemountain & Daughter Fabrics! The Maya Top by Marilla Walker, paired with Pants No. 1 by 100 Acts of Sewing (we added a mock-cuff on the pants)

Our favorite makes of 2018

And just in case you may have forgotten or your sewjo is languishing, let me remind you of our favorite makes in 2018...

All together it gets a thumbs up!The Strand Coat and Camber Set, by Merchant and Mills

The Scout Tee - by Grainline Studio

Another Favorite - Decades of Style's Three's a Charm Jacket

The Kochi Kimono by Papercut, paired with the Melilot by Deer and Doe. We featured this easy jacket pattern in several fabrics - Ikat, flannel, kolkata cloth and a yarn dyed cotton.

The Kalle Shirt - by Closet Case Patterns

River Dress by Megan Neilson with my Pilvi Jacket by Lotta Jansdotter!

Southport Dress by True Bias is a hit!

Cannot recommend this Cinema Dress by Leisl +Co. too much!

The Matilda Dress by Megan Nielsen with a gorgeous Rayon

Cotton Lander Pants by True Bias - 
I think everyone in the store used this pattern.

Lander Pants Revolution! Seen here are three 
of my five buying and social media team -
Catherine, Lauren, Olivia and myself (from left to right)

The Reeta Midi Dress, by Named. Such a classic shirtdress - awesome in a gorgeous floral Rayon!

The Weekend Getaway Dress by Liesl + Co. made out of a sandwiched rayon. 

The Wiksten Kimono - renamed the Wiksten Haori. Who doesn't love boiled wool? Such a great jacket, we're making it again in boiled wool, only the shorter version.

The Matcha Top, by Sew Liberated made out of a gorgeous silk crepe (added a little ruffle on the sleeves)

Who didn't make a Metamorphic Dress by Sew Liberated in 2018? So many folks on Instagram made this dress and we had to jump aboard and try it out of these two rayons!

The Stasia Dress, by Sew Liberated in a soft poly knit.

The River Dress by Megan Nielsen. We made this dress twice - the first version was a little tight in the bust so we graded it upward and it was perfect.  Rayon is a perfect fabric for this dress! And it has POCKETS! YAY! 

Looking forward to 2019

We will continue to feature Indie patterns in 2019, but with greater emphasis on the fabrics that make the pattern. Here are a couple of my latest tries to be featured in my next blogs.

Advanced peek at my Inari Crop Tee from Named and the Emerson Pants from True Bias.

The top is the Friday Raglan Blouse with my new favorite Emerson pants...

Loving my Thursdays with Laurel! I'm wearing the Reeta Midi Shirt Dress by Named
and Laurel is wearing Ebony by Closet Case 

What are you ready to create? I hope that you are inspired by seeing many of our favorite patterns and fabrics pairings. Please stop by my store in Berkeley, Stonemountain & Daughter Fabrics, or visit us online. We do swatches and answer any questions you may have about fabric "pairings" with patterns. Email my team at info@stonemountainfabric.com with any questions or swatch requests.

Many people who used to never buy fabric online are now seeing that they can! I believe what is happening is that people are learning how to feel with their vision. By seeing garments made up and following sewists on Instagram, we are able to "feel" the fabric and judge whether it would work up in the garment we are visioning. Give it a try or better yet, stop by and say hi in Berkeley the next time you are in the area. It's well worth the drive (or the flight) in!

Thanks again for following along and I hope that you find my journey useful and supportive to grow your own passion and visibility in our creative world.

creatively yours,

Suzan Steinberg

Owner, Stonemountain & Daughter Fabrics

Since 1981, although I don't feel that old :)

4th Generation in the fabric business, 1919 - 2019

Sew Liberated patterns are so amazing!
This Stacia Dress would be so good for any body type in any quality knit - great for layering too!

Discovering Kolkata Cloth and the Kochi Kimono

We all have items that we consider wardrobe staples - items that we make over and over again and find ourselves reaching into our closets for everyday. For some, these everyday essentials are t-shirts, for some, it's jeans. You'll hear someone say, 'Well, you can never have too many...'

We would agree on this in regards to the Kochi Kimono Jacket from Papercut Patterns.  If ever there was a versatile jacket pattern for all seasons and frame of mind, we might suggest that it's this great unlined jacket.

We've featured this jacket in Cotton Ikat...

Also in a yarn dyed Linen 

And even Cotton Flannel

One of our favorite fabrics at the moment is Kolkata cloth, a textured, woven cotton that is absolutely awesome for so many patterns - pants, dresses, you name it. We love the ease of this casual fabric, especially after a washing, when the texture reveals itself.

As of the writing of this blog, there are only 5 colors left—Paprika, Raffia, Yarrow, Basil, and Ivory. Sometimes things don't make sense in this business and the fact that this manufacturer discontinued this fabric, is beyond me. We bought all the bolts left after we found out they were not going forward with this fabric and it's almost all gone.  It's that good. Perhaps someone will make it again...someday.

Needless to say, we are in love with this fabric - and it's perfect for the Kochi Kimono. If it's possible to have a jacket that works in all for seasons, this might be the one. It is easy to make and easy to layer, since it's unlined.  The lines are simple, with that kimono styling that is so flattering, for any body type.

For this version, we went with variation 1, with collar band and pockets, but opted out of the waist ties. Instead, I've decided to style it with a belt when I want to wear it closed. A self-belt from the same fabric would look great, as well!

I can think of several other patterns that would lend themselves nicely to this textured cotton. Here are just a few:

The new Picasso Pants from Sewing Workshop...

How about the Stevie Tunic from Tilly and Buttons - perfect!

Or the Sointu Kimono Tee from Named Patterns...

I'd even say it would make a wonderfully soft and cozy pair of Arenite Pants from Sew Liberated...

When we find a fabric that's this versatile, the possibilities are endless. You don't always have to reinvent the wheel when planning your Destiny wardrobe.  Certain fabrics are worth repeating - and bonus - using similar fabrics can bring a cohesiveness to your wardrobe. I think that's why we often make separates - different pieces can be put together in a new way, thus expanding your daily choices of the "what shall I wear today" dilemma.

If you haven't seen Kolkata Cloth in person, why not order a couple of swatches (while there is some left) on the Stonemountain website.  It's a great way to be sure of a color and a texture for your next me-made garment.

Thanks for reading along! Have you noticed how exciting things are getting in the world of sewing indie patterns? Beautiful fabric to pair with indie patterns is taking us all to a whole new level of creating clothes for our soul.

Happy Sewing,

Suzan 

fabriclady3@gmail.com

Owner, Stonemountain & Daughter Fabrics

Berkeley CA

My Lightweight Jackets for a California Climate

California lives up to the hype of its Mediterranean climate, along with its temperate forests in the North, arid deserts in the interior, and snowy alpine regions in the mountains. We boast beautiful beaches, spectacular cityscapes, and millions of acres of the richest farm land in the world. We call ourselves the Golden State, famous for our golden sunsets, beautiful poppies, and of course, our dry wild grasses that take over the landscape in the summer.

We rarely see a savage winter and for the most part, we don't need heavy wool or down clothing for everyday wear. Unless we are enjoying the ski season in the mountains, our outerwear tends to be lighter in weight. For those of us who call the Bay Area home, we are even more blessed with mild weather for much of the year. We can wear sweaters and jackets all year round instead of the heavy coats so necessary in the Northeast.

I love picking out fabrics that will work in all seasons and with layering. Linen is one of our favorite fabrics for clothing, and with the variety of weights and textures that have become available at Stonemountain & Daughter Fabrics, there are many choices for jackets. Linen is one of the oldest fabrics and is great layered over other fabrics such as ikat, silk, rayon, and more.

Be sure to use the tried and true linen prep recommended by Sandra Betzina before cutting out your pattern.

Tip for Pre-treating Linen

If you want your linen to wrinkle a lot less, do the following: 

• Before you preshrink, iron the linen with the hottest dry iron possible to set a wrinkle-less finish.

• Next, throw in a little detergent and wash and dry in the hottest water and hottest dryer you have. 

• Take out of the dryer when close to bone dry. 

• You will notice that smaller softer wrinkles have replaced the hard crease sometimes associated with linen.

Before ironing and washing...

After...fabric has soft "wrinkles" so attractive in 
natural fibers and ready for ironing.

Three's a Charm Jacket

Some patterns are timeless. We come back to them time and time again in our wardrobes.  Decades of Style's Three's a Charm Jacket has a cropped silhouette, perfect for our California weather.  We've  previously made it up in our denim & eyelet. This Spring we used beautiful Indian Kantha cloth - it expresses the side of me that loves organic, natural fibers with a handcrafted feel.

So gorgeous in a denim novelty - this pattern can be dressed up or down and is perfect for layering!

The Sapporo Coat

The Sapporo Coat by Papercut Patterns is among our favorite lightweight jackets when made unlined.  We love its simple lines...and of course the pockets!

 

Kochi Kimono Jacket

Another Papercut Pattern favorite is the Kochi Kimono Jacket. It's a very fast make, even for beginners.  We have chosen Cotton Ikats (shown here), linen (shown below), soft rayons,  wool, and even cotton flannel to make this versatile must-make jacket.

Merchant & Mills' Strand Coat

Linen is perfect for the Merchant and Mills Strand Coat...

Pilvi Coat

And if you need just a little more warmth for the colder days, why not try a Pilvi coat by Lotta Jansdotter? We've made this coat several times in 100% boiled wool (really warm if it's lined) as well as unlined versions in boiled wool blends.

The Cocoon Jacket

Transition pieces in the Spring and Fall can be as simple as a sweater knit cardigan.  The Cocoon Jacket by Jalie Patterns is easy to make and super cuddly, for work or play — it just keeps the chill off.

In the end, it's all abut finding patterns that work for you and the weather outside. Many of the indie patterns that we feature in our blogs are versatile and can be made with fabrics that are lightweight, as well as heavier for added warmth. And if you are a more intermediate sewist, many of them can be lined as well.  

Laurel's Kochi Kimono

Laurel and I love our handmade wardrobes and each other!

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There have been a lot of changes this year. Through the ups and downs and challenges of life, I am so grateful for the people in my life that support me and my store. Lauren and I just got back from a fabulous buying trip to Quilt Market up in Portland where we got to buy all the pretty fabrics and deepen our relationships with all the fun folks in our industry. It's such a profound joy to share this with her and the other members on our team. Through this next generation of fabric lovers, I am finding great hope for the art of sewing garments and for Stonemountain & Daughter Fabrics.

At Quilt Market in Portland with
Lauren and Mr. Domestic!

I have been feeling the shift back to garment sewing for many years, but thanks to these amazing women who work tirelessly to grow our online presence, we now are feeling how much our quality fabric and store is appreciated around the United States and the world. This last month of celebrating our community of indie pattern lovers over on Instagram and Me Made May was so much fun. If you are not on Instagram yet, I urge you to come on over and join the fun. We are all sharing and supporting each other like never before.

Our amazing management team at STM&D from left to right:
Catherine, Lauren, Liz, Me (Suzan), and Olivia
All working on social media, website, and all
the orders coming through daily!

A big shout out to my father and founder of Stonemountain & Daughter as we get closer to Father's Day. I love you Dad and it's been an amazing journey with you. Looking forward to many more years of love and fabric.

Celebrating with you!

Suzan Steinberg

Owner, Stonemountain & Daughter Fabrics

In Berkeley California

fabriclady3@gmail.com

I would love to hear from you!