Outside the Lines - Our Favorite Pattern "Hacks"

We all do it. It's part of the fun and satisfaction of making your own clothes. Some of us stick to the pattern for our first go at it, but if it becomes one of our go-to patterns, it doesn't take long before we are making changes to the pattern, just so all our garments don't look exactly alike. Maybe we will take inches off the hemline and turn a dress into a tunic.  Or maybe we will use the sleeve from one pattern and add it to another, peplums and ruffles added or removed, and so on.

Patterns hacks are prevalent among sewists who have been at it for a number of years.  It's all about the sewing adventure - finding the style, fabric, and fit that suits both your body as well as showcasing your unique fashion aesthetic. And interestingly enough, the indie pattern designers are even starting to put out "hacks" on their own patterns.  We love it!

We started this post thinking we'd list our top five pattern hacks, but after some meaningful dialog over lunch, Laurel and I listed at least that many in the first five minutes of our discussion. We've been at this collaboration for over five years, and I think our first make together was even a design hack. It was a Sandra Betzina pattern, a simple bias cut shell, that we decided to use two different fabrics – silk/lycra charmeuse and black rayon/lycra knit.

This photo feels so long ago! Can it only be 6 years?

Almost any modification can be considered a hack...something as basic as changing up the facing to bias binding on a neckline or armhole.

Laurel loves an all-in-one bodice facing rather than bias binding on the 100 Acts Of Sewing - Dress No. 1.https://www.stonemountainfabric.com/product/dress-no-1/ The pattern calls for the use of bias tape on the neckline and armholes, but a facing gives a nice clean finish that she prefers.

Dress No. 1

We've changed up this basic pattern so many times, we lost count. We've modified the neckline and length so we could layer a tunic version over a dress version.

And how many different ways can you change up a Sew Liberated - School House Tunic?

From gathers, to pleats, to changing the front opening, it's such a great pattern with so many possibilities. We've even added cuffs to the sleeves.

There are times when you just can't find the right pattern to fit the image that you have floating around in your mind. The real "hackers" will buy the closest pattern that matches that image then cut, paste, edit, change, etc. the whole pattern...sometimes combining a sleeve from another pattern or changing up a collar. It's a way to make a pattern your own. One reason why we sew is because we don't want to wear what everyone else is wearing, right?

Laurel draws on her patterns to help her visualize how they can be hacked.

Peplums and ruffles are an easy change to most patterns.  We added a peplum to Granline Studio's Linden Sweatshirt, a real favorite of many sewists.

The peplum turned out so cute and added a real feminine touch to this lightweight knit version.

And of course, adding a ruffle to any hemline, neckline or sleeve gives a simple pattern a whole new look. We made the Matcha top as designed the first time...

But the second version in a beautiful silk print was begging for a ruffled sleeve.

Who says you can't chop at a sleeve and change the whole look of the classic sweatshirt? Using a variety of colors and prints make your version unique. Color blocking and fabric variations are a hack of sorts, and always a winner. We love using striped knits as bias bindings. Let the textures and patterns of the fabrics create the drama.

Hacks can be as simple as an embellishment added for drama or in this, case to cover a flaw in the fabric that we overlooked at the cutting stage. We turned this Here & There dress into a top, but missed the center front fold mark in the fabric.

Fabric flaws happen occasionally...and sometimes we miss them.

No problem...a little bias strip and bingo!

We love 100 Acts of Sewing's Pant's No. 1. The easy elastic waist and loose fitting legs work up well in almost any fabric. For fun, we added some detail by adding cuffs with a button! Finishing with a button just adds to the individuality of your pants.

To make this hack, finish the side seams of the pants separately before stitching them together. Stop stitching a few inches from the end and press the seams open to create the split hem.

Create the cuff by cutting a strip of fabric that is twice as wide as the finished cuff + seam allowance. To make one tab, cut two pieces of fabric in the shape you would like + seam allowances. Click and download the template below to make a tab with the final dimensions of 4 1/4" x 1 3/4", including 1/2" seam allowances.

Sew these pieces right sides together, leaving the square edge open. Trim the edges, turn right side out, and press. Sew the buttonhole.

Baste the tab in position on the cuff piece, making sure to leave seam allowance at the bottom edge.

Fold up the seam allowance on the long cuff edge without the tab, wrong sides together. Fold the cuff piece in half, right sides together, and stitch each short edge.

Turn right side out and press. Attach the long edge of the cuff that doesn't have the seam allowance pressed up to the pant leg, right sides together. Fold the cuff and topstitch, stitch in the ditch, or hand stitch the cuff closed.

Sew a button to the other edge of the cuff and you're done! We like to sew the button a little further over to create a cute pleat at the pant hem.

What are your favorite pattern hacks? Please share your creative ideas and inspire all of us to continue to make our garments unique and special.

In support of your creativity,
Suzan
email me at fabriclady3@gmail
Stonemountain & Daughter Fabrics

Discovering Kolkata Cloth and the Kochi Kimono

We all have items that we consider wardrobe staples - items that we make over and over again and find ourselves reaching into our closets for everyday. For some, these everyday essentials are t-shirts, for some, it's jeans. You'll hear someone say, 'Well, you can never have too many...'

We would agree on this in regards to the Kochi Kimono Jacket from Papercut Patterns.  If ever there was a versatile jacket pattern for all seasons and frame of mind, we might suggest that it's this great unlined jacket.

We've featured this jacket in Cotton Ikat...

Also in a yarn dyed Linen 

And even Cotton Flannel

One of our favorite fabrics at the moment is Kolkata cloth, a textured, woven cotton that is absolutely awesome for so many patterns - pants, dresses, you name it. We love the ease of this casual fabric, especially after a washing, when the texture reveals itself.

As of the writing of this blog, there are only 5 colors left—Paprika, Raffia, Yarrow, Basil, and Ivory. Sometimes things don't make sense in this business and the fact that this manufacturer discontinued this fabric, is beyond me. We bought all the bolts left after we found out they were not going forward with this fabric and it's almost all gone.  It's that good. Perhaps someone will make it again...someday.

Needless to say, we are in love with this fabric - and it's perfect for the Kochi Kimono. If it's possible to have a jacket that works in all for seasons, this might be the one. It is easy to make and easy to layer, since it's unlined.  The lines are simple, with that kimono styling that is so flattering, for any body type.

For this version, we went with variation 1, with collar band and pockets, but opted out of the waist ties. Instead, I've decided to style it with a belt when I want to wear it closed. A self-belt from the same fabric would look great, as well!

I can think of several other patterns that would lend themselves nicely to this textured cotton. Here are just a few:

The new Picasso Pants from Sewing Workshop...

How about the Stevie Tunic from Tilly and Buttons - perfect!

Or the Sointu Kimono Tee from Named Patterns...

I'd even say it would make a wonderfully soft and cozy pair of Arenite Pants from Sew Liberated...

When we find a fabric that's this versatile, the possibilities are endless. You don't always have to reinvent the wheel when planning your Destiny wardrobe.  Certain fabrics are worth repeating - and bonus - using similar fabrics can bring a cohesiveness to your wardrobe. I think that's why we often make separates - different pieces can be put together in a new way, thus expanding your daily choices of the "what shall I wear today" dilemma.

If you haven't seen Kolkata Cloth in person, why not order a couple of swatches (while there is some left) on the Stonemountain website.  It's a great way to be sure of a color and a texture for your next me-made garment.

Thanks for reading along! Have you noticed how exciting things are getting in the world of sewing indie patterns? Beautiful fabric to pair with indie patterns is taking us all to a whole new level of creating clothes for our soul.

Happy Sewing,

Suzan 

fabriclady3@gmail.com

Owner, Stonemountain & Daughter Fabrics

Berkeley CA

Fit and Fun Days

Every four to six weeks my seamstress and dear friend Laurel drives from Sacramento to Berkeley for a day of collaboration with me, aka Fabriclady. We call our days together "Fit and Fun" for a reason - it's not just about fitting and finalizing the month's makes, but it's also about having fun in the process! I thought you might enjoy a peek into our process of creating a Destiny Wardrobe. 

Trust me, it takes a village and everyone at the store jumps in with opinions, suggestions and help. Laurel puts our ideas to work, but before she puts her pedal to the metal, a lot of planning goes into our day together.

Before this happens...

My team picks out the latest pattern releases for consideration...

Current projects seen here: Metamorphic Dress by Sew Liberated; Metamorphic Kit available at Stonemountain; Stevie Tunic by Tilly and the Buttons; Reeta Midi Shirt Dress by Named;  Southport Dress by True Bias; River Dress and Top by Megan Nielson

We like to focus on new fabric arrivals for the patterns. There are so many possibilities, but we try to stick with fabrics that our customers would also like. Some fabrics are repeat choices, but perhaps in different colorways and print patterns.

Some for me...

...and some for Laurel!

Dream Fabrics!

All the "possibilities" are put in a pile for pondering...we view, discuss, eliminate, add, etc. And all that work necessitates a little friendship/catching up time over lunch. After lunch, cappuccinos are an absolute MUST.

The afternoon is busy, busy, busy. The fitting session is also the photography session, so that we can document our progress. Laurel has been sewing for me for five years, so usually the first try-on of a finished garment is right on target. But not always..

Yikes...too low for me :)

A whole lot of fitting went into this one!

It's why we sometimes need to make a muslin FIRST.

My Ogden Cami muslin made out of leftover fabric from a pair of pants!

My Lander Pants muslin - a little here and a little there!

I probably don't need to tell you how important photography is for a website, blog or social media. We are constantly working on new ways to change up and improve our photography.  What ends up happening on a Fit and Fun Day is that there are several of us snapping pictures of the same garment. And that makes for variety and perspective. We don't use professional photographers for these sessions, mainly because we want you to know that even your best phone photos can work. We enjoys seeing others' creative efforts on social media...you inspire us to try new poses!

Loving this new Maya Top from Marilla Walker!

Testing out my new No. 1 Pants out of a soon to be release cotton/linen from Robert Kaufman!

The new Kolkata Cloth made into a Kochi Kimono is amazing!

Stacia Dress by Sew Liberated!!!
Loving it in this textured Polyester knit!

Of course, we all get in the act...like the day we all wore our Lander Pants...

Dream Team all wearing Lander Pants and shorts!

Mid afternoon is time to put our feet to the fire and make some decisions about our next garments. Fabric is measured and photos are taken of our choices. Laurel takes her own photos as well...she says it's so she can remember what she's supposed to make! And not telling any tales out of school here, but sometimes neither one of us can remember...so we text back and forth throughout the month... "What view are we making?" "Did you really want those long sleeves?"

Which one should go on top for this Metamorphic Dress???

Amazing Rayons at Stonemountain, click here! The indigo rayon print is here.

It's usually four or five o'clock before we send Laurel back to the valley with a bag full of new garment makes. And so the process begins all over again. It is a smooth running machine, this collaboration that we have going. It's such a blessing to have a great staff at the store who help make this day a real treat. 

And lucky you, they are available to help you plan your own garments, select fabrics and make suggestions.  Our store is a "happening" place for our sewing community.  Come on in and have your own Fabric Fun Day!