Tuesday, October 24, 2017

Celebrating the Sapporo Coat - A Style for all Seasons!

The moment the Sapporo Coat pattern by Papercut Patterns was put in front of me, all of its potential flashed through my mind. Its superb silhouette and angled seams are ready to show off any textile in my store, Stonemountain & Daughter Fabrics

It's truly a coat for all seasons!
Laurel and Fabriclady's Linen Sapporo Coats - so pretty!

This sculpted coat is reminiscent of my Issey Miyake coat from the 80's - more unstructured but lots of ease and can go over any outfit. That Miyake jacket was 5 yards and this Sapporo is a perfect 3 yards of 55" wide quality fabric. 

Here's a blast from the past! How many of you remember this pattern?
Everyone wanted to try on the Sapporo 
when it came in for a fitting!

Looks so great on everybody!


It can feel a little big but it's a super easy style to wear. Even at the smallest size, it might be best to trim it back.

Be sure to choose the right fabric to show off the design and fit details.

Here are a few of my favorites:

Pom Pom Coating
Arroyo Essex Linen

Indian Kantha Cloth
Boiled Wool in Ash

We chose beautiful cross dyed linen for our first versions and they will look great over Ikat outfits.

TIP: If you choose a heavier fabric, like a wool melton coating, Sandra Betzina has a great suggestion in her book More Fabric SavvyUse a teflon presser foot and a 90/14 needle. Use stay tape at the shoulders and neck, leaving off the interfacing - sews super easy! (thank you Chuleenan for sharing Sandra's tip)

Let's explore some details that may make your sewing experience easier... 

The Sapporo features a unique front piecing design which conceals a pocket.  The seams are curved slightly toward the sides.

To sew a curved seam, you will need to clip the one concave edge so it can be eased around the curve.

In a lighter weight fabric like this linen, the interfacing around the neckline and coat fronts is very important in order to maintain the shape of the coat.  We also added a strip of interfacing along the edge of the pocket to help it maintain its shape.

Great pockets which you can make larger if you like!

Another great tip for finishing curved seams is 1) clip the curves first, then 2) while serging the clipped curved, gently pull it straight, spreading the clipped seam and serge right through.  This allows the curved seam to be able to stretch.

The Sapporo is a fully lined coat as designed, but it can be made in an unstructured manner as well.  We finished off the sleeve hems by adding a bias tape...

Then turned and hemmed by hand for a neat, professional look.

You can see the detail of this lovely coat better from the inside!

Beautiful inside and out!
Ah those pockets are so dreamy!!!
The inside is so pretty on this unlined metallic linen version
Great look at back of the coat with its full drape!
Ah my dream jacket! What other fabric will I use?!
I love this nice stand up collar! If you choose a fabric with more body, you get this stunning look!
Thank you Laurel for letting us all try on your Sapporo Coat - 
we all fell in love with it!

As with most of life's opportunities, we can use garment making as a challenge, opportunity, and catalyst to create and evolve. 

Thank you for joining me in making clothes that matter!

2518 Shattuck Ave. @ Dwight Way
South End, Downtown Berkeley

p.s. Please stop by and say hi to me in the store. I love to hear about what inspires you to make your own clothes!

The Sapporo Coat is from the Sakura Collection by Papercut Patterns