It's why we sew...

A few weeks ago my seamstress and friend Laurel came down for one of our fitting/lunch/wardrobe planning days at Stonemountain. Over lunch she recounted a window shopping day she had recently, on the search for a dress to wear to her high school reunion this coming fall. In fact, her hubby' reunion in Texas is later this year, so she was on the hunt for some ideas - you know, one of those smashing little dresses that will make the old girlfriend ever so slightly jealous (LOL!).

Even if we make the majority of our wardrobe, sometimes we just want to see how ready to wear styles might look on our frame. That's why we window shop, trying on dresses to help us imagine what we might wear to a special occasion.  If we're lucky, we might even score a new dress off the rack. But because we sew and are able to recognize quality fabrics and good workmanship when we see them, even window shopping can be a disappointment. Laurel's recent expedition was not without challenges.

First, how do you even find anything? 

With the sheer number of choices, you would think you should be able to find one dress you like...

Second issue: who wants to show up for the party looking like everyone else?

You want something unique, but most of us who are of a certain age 

can't imagine some of today's "styles" working on our bodies...

For Laurel, many of the designs were not suitable for the "knock 'em dead" look she was after. We can image wearing this simple sheath design, but its way too corporate business looking for a party...

This fabric was unique and feminine, BUT unless you're twenty something,
it's way too short.

Conclusion: Making the perfect dress is why we sew! When we see a gorgeous piece of fabric,  we imagine all sorts of garments that we could create.  And best of all, we know it's unlikely that we will see someone with the same outfit across the dance floor.  Our creations are unique to us.  They fit us like a glove.  They speak to who we are as designers and sewists.

Two sewists can use the same pattern and just by changing the fabric make the garment unique to themselves.  For instance, we've had this unique La Fred Helena dress hanging in our shop for quite some time, but it just caught Laurel's eye this month.

Laurel chose a gorgeous rayon knit to make one for herself. 

You won't find this print in the department stores, so her dress will be uniquely her.
It won't be worn for her reunion, but it's a perfect example of why we make our own dresses instead of buying off the rack.

                 

I too love a dress that will speak to the Berkley girl that I am.  Sometimes the pattern is classic but a fresh take on fabric brings it to life all over again. For instance, take this Boho Chic look that's been around for ages: Vogue 9124.

Let's make it up in a gorgeous rayon border print. 

 I can't wait to see how Laurel works the fabric's border into the design!

The fall season is just around the corner, so it was inevitable that we would get distracted away from the "Reunion Dress Mission".  Fall speaks to each of us in different ways - the colors and textures of fall fabrics are infinite. We chose this silk knit first because of its unique color block pattern.  So why not pair it with a solid fabric and make a color blocked top with Vogue 9067 to wear with some nice black jeans?  So very fall...so very Laurel! 

After our day of wardrobe planning and dreaming, we still didn't find the right look for Laurel's two reunion events this fall, but we were off to a good start with this fabulous silk...it's definitely a show stopper.  Stonemountain often stocks these one-of a kind fabrics - I think a long flowing maxi skirt could be the ticket. It's a definite "maybe".

There's nothing complex about picking out just the right look and fabric for a special occasion:  You go with what strikes your fancy. Fabric speaks to those of us who listen. The option of facing jammed aisles of ready made dresses is often overwhelming - it's so "noisy". But a wall of beautiful fabrics...touching them...holding them up to our face; we can see the image of our garment start to take shape. We are creating something uniquely us...an outward expression of our inner soul and spirit - it's almost magic.

And it's WHY we sew.

Creatively yours,

SuZan

Cabin Top

Take a look at some of the fabulous garments we have been creating - you just can't buy these in the stores! What are you ready to make for Fall?

         

Given a Chance Dress!

                             

The Personality of Fabrics

I have been off on buying trips these past weeks for Stonemountain & Daughter Fabrics, searching for fabrics that speak to me and that I think will inspire you to sew a wardrobe for yourself. As I wander through the multitudes of knits and wovens available, I am always mindful of how easy (or difficult!) a fashion fabric may be to sew. My choices represent a collection of fabric "personalities" that loosely remind me of the vast variety of personalities of our customer base.

Like our own personalities, each fabric has it's own set of unique characteristics, both good and not so good, easy going or difficult to manage. A lot of how a fabric responds to the dressmaker depends on her skill level, the tools she works with and her level of experience.  Budding seamstresses choose more forgiving fashion fabrics, such as cottons and other woven fabrics. Seasoned dressmakers will go for the silk charmeuse, linen and wool every time.

Most of us are middle of the road sewers - "Sew 'n Gos" (I just made that up!)...we've worked with some knits, a silk here and there and even tackled an occasional wool.  My dressmaker and fellow fabric enthusiast Laurel (of Laurel's Quill) contends that even a beginning home sewer can choose some of these "intimidating" fabrics, if she just learns a few tricks.

I love the many personalities of knits. You can find a wide variety of colors, textures, fabric contents and lively prints in knits. Though a lot of knits are lightweight, some are heavier in texture, such as the ponte knit skirt in my fall wardrobe (collection). Again, once you've chosen a knit, just remember a few sewing hints so that your knit garment will reflect your design style the way you imagined.

For instance, almost all of my quilting friends pre-wash their cottons, but not everyone thinks about pre-washing a knit. Other than polyester and certain other synthetic knits, it's a good idea to pre-wash AND dry your fabric before cutting it out.

Not all knits are printed exactly on the straight of the material, and you'll find that out rather quickly after a wash cycle...better to find that out first than to make the garment and wonder why the back is riding up or the sleeves are all twisted around your armpit!  Pre-treatment gives you time to correct the shortcomings of your dream fabric and fix it in the cutting process.

Laurel purchased this great rayon knit from our collection (she picked it for the rich cobalt color) and after the wash/dry cycle, she had to trim the outer selvage edges before layout and cutting - it was rolling up as knits often do - its part of their charm!

When sewing knits, you should always test out a few stitch patterns from your machine before starting on the actual garment. Sometimes,  the "knit" stitch doesn't work as well as a plain old zig-zag stitch. And some knits don't have as much give in the fabric's stretch and a straight stitch works just fine.

Fabric draping is a big part of how garments hang or flow on our bodies. If you want a fluid, drapey look, fabric cut on the bias of the weave is one way to achieve it. But let's get real, working with fabric cut on the bias scares a lot of our Sew n' Gos.  There's just something about that extreme "ease" that wovens on the bias have that freaks us out, generally because we've perhaps chosen a more expensive fabric, such as a silk or lace. Working with bias cuts is like knits -choose the right stitch to maintain the stretch and drape in the garment. And PIN, PIN, PIN! You may even want to baste your seams first (you remember basting, don't you?)

My Sandra Betzina blouse our of silk charmeuse, cut on the bias

Having the right tools makes sewing on the bias (or any sewing for that matter) a lot easier as well.  Do you have one of these?? If you had a home economics teacher who taught you haw to sew, how many times did she tell you to PRESS before you went to the next step?

A pressing ham (available at Stonemountain) is a must have, especially when you're working with delicate fabrics

One of my favorite fabric personalities is linen.  There's something about wearing it that feels very "natural", very homey. We've discussed the pre-washing method for linen in a previous post.  Sewing linen fabric is very easy. I have several linen crop pants in my summer wardrobe, but linen can also be used in a Fall wardrobe. Our Nevada linen (available in many colors) is a heavier fabric with lots of depth - I love the way Laurel made up in this sumptuous red jacket for her Fall wardrobe (Dang - it's not mine??)

We have this pattern...The Sewing Workshop Riviera Shirt

Oh, the details you can get when you sew on this luscious fabric!  Laurel said she had to You Tube how to make a bound buttonhole as she hadn't made one in years.  What a great resource we have on the Internet - don't forget to use it when you get stuck! . Or just drop buy the store - we have a host of experience in our fabric loving staff - they can help! Or better yet, sign up for a class here at Stonemountain & Daughter.

And I can't go without saying that no fabric has more personalities than cotton!  As any quilter will tell you, cotton is the best fabric for a quilt.  But because of the huge variety of patterns, prints, stripes and batiks available, your fabric can reflect your personality and style all by itself.  Remember my Decades of Style vintage dress? Cotton! See how Victoria and I reflected our own style, just by choosing fabric that spoke to our personal design aesthetic.

So whether you are a budding seamstress, a Sew n' Go, or an experienced dressmaker, let fabrics speak to you.  Choose them "thoughtfully", as Tim Gunn would say, but don't forget to try something new and fresh for the Fall season...maybe a boiled wool, or a silk - something you haven't sewn on before. 

So many fabrics, all speaking to Victoria and I, at the International Textiles Expo in Las Vegas ~
Stop by and see all the daily shipments!

Creatively Yours,

Suzan

fabriclady3@gmail.com

www.stonemountainfabric.com

Creative Director, Stonemountain & Daughter Fabrics

2518 Shattuck Ave. @ Dwight Way

Berkeley CA 94704

Lots of parking and great service!

Why not try a vintage look in your wardrobe?

Victoria, our buyer and my assistant, here at Stonemountain & Daughter Fabrics, made the cutest vintage dress from the Decades of Style pattern line.  She and I often go to trade shows together, so we thought it might be fun to make one for me as well.  I love the classic styles of the 1950's and I have admired the Decades of Style  "Object d'Art Dress" Victoria made ever since she first wore it to work. We will have so much fun wearing them at the same time!!!

I chose a cotton lawn print with a solid color for the inserts at the pockets and neckline. Victoria cut her skirt a little fuller than the original, which I planned to duplicate as well - the  original design features a very long skirt, typical of the 1950's, with a kick pleat in the back at the hemline (which would look great on me if I was 5'9" like the model!).

Laurel (my Fashionista Dressmaker) will attest that this pattern is probably suited for our more seasoned seamstresses, but it's worth tackling - that's how we grow as home sewers - by trying new techniques and upping our sewing game!

The finished product is very sophisticated and oh so tres chic!

Stop by and see the dress on display in the Fashion Room this week!

I love the detailing...

Laurel is bringing me this dress this week! I can't wait to try on the finished project. Thanks so much Laurel for sharing your art with me and the rest of us!

Earlier today, Laurel let me know that her sewing machine was acting up and just how frustrated she was. I have a great idea Laurel, how about using my old Viking (complete with a Dead Sticker!) until your old faithful gets fixed?

As I sit here on a beautiful Saturday afternoon resting up from a full week, my husband and I were talking about the big changes we have made in our eating.  It's been remarkably easy and rewarding to stay fairly true to the Whole9 nutrition plan of whole organic vegetables, fruits and protein (no bread, grains, sugar, dairy).  I love having lots of energy - plus losing a few pounds has felt great. My husband just knocked on my office door to let me know he was going to get on the treadmill and then make us our daily juice - sounds good to me!

Have a beautiful weekend and hope your summer is going well. Please try to stop by the store and check out some of the clothes on display that we have been chatting about here.

Love, light, and joy be yours this day.

SuZan

Great crop of onions from our garden - small but tasty!

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