Tee it up for Summer! Yep it's Me Made May Time!

Jalie 3352

With such a huge selection of knits available at Stonemountain & Daughter Fabrics in Berkeley, it's no wonder that making tee shirts for the Spring and Summer is one of our favorite sews. Whether it be cotton or rayon knit, the prints and designs are infinite, so every tee looks unique, even if you reuse the pattern over and over. We've even noticed that the overall quality of knit fabrics has improved over our 34 years here at Stonemountain, so we totally enjoy finding those unusual prints for you.

If this is your first experience with knits, you may want to try a more stable, soft cotton knit before you pick an even softer rayon knit...and by all means, save our luscious silk knits until you've got a couple of tees under your belt - slippery little devils! :) We stock great polyester knits as well, but we're thinking summer heat so the breathable natural fabrics are best for tees - save those polys for Fall and Winter.

We have been enjoying the focus on Indie Patterns for quite a while now. Over on Instagram, our sewing community is sharing their creations for Me Mad May! You can use the hashtag #memademay and always remember to tag #stonemountainfabric if you use our patterns or fabric! If you are not on there following @stonemountainfabric and @fabriclady3, do head on over!

One of our go-to patterns is Grainline Studio's Lark Tee.  It's an easy pattern for intermediate sewists, but even a beginner who's just trying their first knit tee can probably handle it. Perfect for getting started with #memademay or your summer sewing! Here one we've made in the past for me...

This graphic print was more challenging to cut out then it was to sew.

Laurel is addicted to the Lark - last Winter she made three of them in one sitting.

So naturally, as she looked forward to the summer months ahead, she returned to the Lark, but with shorter sleeves for the valley heat. The Lark has four sleeve variations and four necklines to choose from - that's what makes it such a great pattern.  We both also love that it is fitted and longer in the torso.

Why not do another "power sewing" day and make three at a time - especially when they all will use the same color thread! Much of the sewing on knits can be done with a serger - the side and shoulder seams, as well as finishing off the edges. Each variation of the Lark Tee neckline comes with a perfectly fitting neck binding pattern piece, so no guesswork is needed.  The sleeves are sewn in using a stretch stitch (you can use a small zig-zag stitch) and then finished with a serged edge for neatness.

Our Buyers Lauren and Liz are always talking sewing techniques with Laurel, and Lauren has been touting the twin needle finish on the hems. So let's give it a try, using a wooly nylon in the bobbin. We had to mess with the tension a bit to reduce the tunneling that sometimes occurs with certain knits.

Two spools of the same color thread

Laurel actually used a jeans twin needle, as the needles were farther apart. And she set the stitch length for 3.0

 Not a bad result...right?!

 On this rayon knit, she used the v-neck option and a deeper hem.

We love this cotton animal pattern knit...so soft and cute.

In the absence of an expensive Cover Stitch machine, this twin needle finish is great.

I think Laurel picked up some turquoise denim last month...this needs a pair of Morgan Jeans, right??

The third tee wasn't as cooperative with the twin needle as the other two fabrics, so we just reverted back to a multi zig-zag to finish it off.  In fact, the fabric got a little tangled up in the plate and whoops...naturally, the hole is on the front of the sleeve...oh well. Finished is better then perfect!

Whoopsie!

We love the shorter cap sleeve version too!

Most of our Indie pattern makers offer some sort of a tee shirt pattern, so don't be limited in your pattern selections. Why not also try this cute Dolman top from Jalie #3352...

Jalie 3352

Or this raglan tee, also from Jalie 3245...

Jalie 3245

After all, variety is the spice of life! And we certainly have enough variety in the fabrics to choose from.  Here's a couple I chose ( you know how I have that Celestial thing going)

                            

Get your tees started now, before the summer the heats up.

What are you most desiring to make?

I hope that my blog is serving to inspire you to get your summer sewing planned out!

With all the great new patterns and high quality of fabric at Stonemountain & Daughter Fabrics, we got this, right?!

Now step on over to the inspiring blog of my Berkeley Fabric store and read more about Me Made May and what our customers are doing with our fabric!

"It's so inspiring to see what our customers create with our fabrics and patterns!  We thought we'd gather together some of the garments we've seen on Instagram this past month, and we hope it inspires you too!"

Me Made May Round Up for Stonemountain!

Creatively yours,
Suzan
fabriclady3@gmail.com

Are you on our mailing list for Stonemountain & Daughter email newsletters which have coupons in them? Sign up here!

z

March Indie-Bliss! - What's up next!

Why end a good thing? Our January Indie Pattern Month celebration highlighted all the great independent pattern lines that are featured at Stonemountain. We saw a lot of your creations worked up in great fabrics, and we made up a few of our own. We didn't want the fun the end, so we've picked out a few new designs to work on!

Sewaholic's Renfrew top features three different neckline treatments and three different sleeves.  Many times sewists will want to keep the basic shape of a pattern design but make some changes to the pattern to make it their own.  The Renfrew top does it for you! We will be making View B out of this soft rayon knit in one of my go-to colors - purple!

The Lark Tee by Grainline Studio is one that we will be featuring in a class soon.  Our fabric is very bold graphic rayon lycra knit. It was fun trying to decide how to use the fabrics unique print on this simple tee shirt.  There is no such thing as having too many tee shirts and your fabric choices are the key to making each one unique and totally you.

We've already seen how cute the Camas Blouse by Thread Theory can be on Instagram.  We loved this soft rayon knit and we are not above using it again for our Camas.

 

Not one but three Decades Everyday's Three's a Charm Jacket: two for me and one for Laurel. We chose two denim fabrics (the grey polkadot and the burnt orange). This cute jacket would work in almost any fabric - several of our staff members have already created their own #3sacharmjacket. The third jacket will be lightweight denim-look cotton eyelet.

Pop on over to our Stonemountain blog to read about our community sew along! I hope you will make your own Three's a Charm Jacket!

Were you inspired by our Indie pattern focus? Did you create your own unique version of a particular designer?  Drop by the store or send us a photo or tag us on Instagram.  Sharing your work with others is what makes us all want to join in the "memade" revolution!

Ok, now it's time to get it done!

See you all soon,

Suzan

My Sweet Myrtle Dress

I've said it before, I love wearing dresses to work!
Separates are still fun to expand your wardrobe, but it's so much easier to pick out a dress from your closet in the early morning hours. I don't have to think about what goes with what. My biggest decisions are what shoes to wear, tights or not, and do I need a sweater?

Dresses are a great uniform! Find a style that you love and make it up in a variety of fabrics. We love that about sewing - you can really make the clothing you wear your own.

Even in the fall and winter months, I prefer sleeveless and short sleeved dresses for work around the store.  I can always throw a sweater or light jacket (like the Morris Blazer from Grainline Studio) over it if I get chilly or layer them with long sleeved t-shirts. Fabric choices are simple too: cottons, rayons, and knits are among my go-to choices for dresses. Since our weather here in Berkeley is so temperate, I usually opt for wearing layers, but warmer fabrics like wools can be made up into beautiful dresses as well. 

Our independent pattern designers always have something new to chose from when I'm looking for a fresh frock. I love the variety of styles available these days from indie designers. Each designer and pattern has its own personality and flare to inspire you. The Myrtle dress from Colette looked like such an easy, comfortable and elegant style, and I had the perfect knit in mind for it. 

I chose a beautiful, lightweight rayon/lycra knit in black with a white ditsy floral print. Knits are so versatile and I love that this could be worn at work during the day and then dressed up in the evening for any occasion. Easy to wear and care for, and available in more colors and prints than you can imagine, we love knits at Stonemountain! Visit our website to see a selection of our knits.

The front of Myrtle is self-lined, making the draped front neckline fall into place beautifully.  The bodice back is faced with bias tape at the neck and armholes. Laurel chose a red binding to contrast. We love adding design elements like this wherever we can to makes the garment unique. Isn't that the point of sewing for yourself - to make something that you won't see everyone else wearing?

The beginner pattern instructions were a little difficult to follow when it came time to add the elastic around the waist. Since there didn't seem to be enough length in the bodice to cover the 1" wide elastic called for in the pattern, Laurel added extra wide bias tape to the bodice to create a casing for the elastic - in red of course! If you are a more experienced sewist, sometimes you have to go back to what you know when it comes time to following pattern directions.

 Love the drape of this neckline! So very feminine.

The whole dress drapes perfectly...

maybe tights? Boots?

This Myrtle Dress is perfect for rayon or silk knits because of the draped bodice.  You may also want to consider a soft rayon or cotton challis or even a lightweight lawn if your prefer sewing on woven fabrics.  Colette even has a free download that shows you how to execute this pattern in a woven! Whatever you chose, it needs to drape softly, so avoid crisp or heavy fabrics.

Another great pattern from Colette. I can't wait to wear this dress through winter and into the warmer months!

Cheers to Sewing!!!
Suzan

Your Color Comfort Zone - Embracing our Full Spectrum!

Do you remember having your "colors done"? A consultant basically put you into a seasonal "box" of fashion colors and that color palette became YOUR colors. John Kitchen did mine back in the 80's. You could not venture into a store without your trusty little packet of fabric swatches that guided your fashion selections. If you were a "Fall", then you only choose garments that were avocado, rust, brown, gold, etc. Your season usually corresponded with your natural coloring - blond, brunette, red-head, etc.  The problem with this whole seasonal approach to color is that when we often put ourselves into that color box we think we only look good in reds or blues, etc. and we don't branch out to try new palettes.  Sadly, we rarely deviate from "our" palette.



I've been thinking a lot about color these days with the approach of the summer season.  As I look at the wardrobe that we've been creating, I see a lot of darker colors, probably because I tend to like them and think that I look good in them. Trust me, you can never go wrong with black, gray or navy, and my wardrobe shows it. I wear what makes me feel good...and that can change on a daily basis!

Remember the famous pink dress on red-headed
Molly Ringwald in Pretty in Pink?

But summer calls for a lighter touch, not only in fabric content, but also in color. Not everyone can wear pastels, but doesn't everyone look pretty in pink? But there is also an abundance of vibrant jewel tones and mid-range brights in a variety of fabric choices - cottons, silks, knits and linens. These are the fabrics of summer and they are among my very favorites.

When you shop for fabric, just like anything else, it's always good to have an honest set of eyes on your choices. Put the fabric up to your face and check yourself out in the mirror. Turn and show your girlfriend and if her eyes cross, perhaps that brilliant grass green may be a little much for you. Keep trying colors outside of your comfort zone - you may be surprised to find that even though that yummy coral that isn't in your little tiny little 1/4" X 1" book of swatches, you look radiant in it. Go for it.

Even though I added yet another black piece to my wardrobe with dreamy black linen pants, Laurel is working on a tunic top out of this great new double sided cotton voile.  It's not a color that I would naturally pick for myself, but when we held it up to my face, it worked. We just got in a beautiful selection in all tones for you to choose from at Stonemountain & Daughter Fabrics.

I also love The Liverpool for a shirt dress by Amy Butler. 

We will use the striped side for the inside of the cuffs and collar for a fun contrast.

We keep bringing this Marcy Tilton dress - Vogue 8975 - out of the pattern drawer, looking for just the right fabric.

I think that Laurel and I finally settled on this awesome rayon/lycra knit in a luscious teal. It's hard to capture the true color in photography, so I added a Hex color butterfly insert for you. Love this color for summer!

I also added a little red to my summer wardrobe.  This Marcy Tilton Vogue pattern 8636 is one of my favorite knit shirts. I love the way it turned out...and it goes with all that black stuff in my closet...LOL!

What colors are you going to brave this summer?  Do step outside your comfort zone and pick a tomato red, a sunflower yellow or even the Pantone color of the year, Radiant Orchid. Stop by the store and cruise our aisles for the color that inspires your next creation - we have them all!

Okay, even I can't step that far on most days, but is it yours?

Creatively Yours,

SuZan

Working With Stripes

Burda's four gore skirt pattern No. 3152 is the "go-to" pattern for the summer! This breezy skirt pattern can be made in both woven fabrics as well as soft knits.  Either way, we love how simple it is to sew - four seams, elastic waist and hem!

For the woven look, I wanted to use that beautiful rayon batik challis that we worked up in a sleeveless top last summer.

Together with the skirt, it's an awesome look for spring and summer. I love the way this batik flows, and the best part is that it always looks crisp and fresh.

For the knitted version, I chose a striped ponte knit. I want it to be cut on the bias so that the stripes form a chevron pattern. Laurel made this same skirt for herself in a soft rayon knit. Sewing stripes is not difficult, but it takes a little extra effort to make sure that the pattern matches, especially with a chevron pattern that will be so visible at the center front and back.

I won't have to worry too much about the selvage edges of my ponte knit, but the rayon knits like the one Laurel chose, tend to have selvages that pull slightly, so it's very important to trim them before you lay out your pattern pieces. You can already see just by trimming a section of the fabric edge that the selvage was knitted tighter than the rest of the yardage.

Anytime you cut out a pattern on the bias of the fabric, the pieces should be cut in a single layer, one at a time. For striped fabrics, this is even more crucial. Laurel uses her table's edges to line up the stripes, ensuring the best possible match in the chevron stripes.

 

 Most paper patterns, and this Burda skirt is no different, are semi transparent. For cutting on the bias, you can draw a 45 degree line against the grain line, which is indicated on your pattern, and use that as a guide to position it on the striped fabric.

This rayon knit is so slippery on Laurel's waxed table, so a little Scotch tape here and there helped her hold the stripes in place while cutting.

 

To match the stripes for the perfect chevron pattern in the center front, use the actual fabric section that you just cut (the front right panel, for instance) - not the paper pattern - and place it directly on top of the fabric to cut the front left panel. Be sure to put right sides together and match the stripes as you pin it. In the photo below, you can see what happens when you sew the seams - the chevron appears.

This soft maxi skirt is a great wear for spring and summer alike.

 

Two skirts, same pattern!

Laurel and Zan - same skirt pattern, different fabrics!

As if we haven't had enough of sewing stripes, why not try try The Perfect T-shirt by Pamela's Patterns in a striped knit? I chose a dark teal and grey combination, with the high rounded neckline and short sleeves.

Even though this T-shirt won't be cut on the bias, the same care in fabric preparation, layout and cutting still applies.

Pamela's Perfect T-shirt is a cinch to make....as long as you choose the "perfect size".  Instead of reading the pattern first, Laurel dove right into the cutting out part, choosing my usual size. However, the pattern uses a different bust measurement to pick your size. Measure above the fullest part of the bust to pick your size (lesson learned - always read the pattern BEFORE you begin!).

So, naturally the T-shirt, is as cute as it is, was huge on me. But alterations are a fact of life when you sew for others, so a few nips and tucks and it will be fine.  We'll make the smaller size next time.

Can't wait to show you the finished T-shirt!  It's such a great style that we're making it again in another knit. I'm glad Laurel loves sewing on our knits...she says there is nothing more satisfying than "stitchin' in the ditch" of a beautiful knit. We love it too!

Come in and pick out a nice striped fabric for yourself…we have a huge selection of cotton, rayon and polyester knits. You could make the Burda skirt out of a woven stripe cut on the bias as well. There's are stripes galore waiting for you at Stonemountain & Daughter!

Creatively Yours,

Suzan
fabriclady3@gmail.com