Showing posts with label Cabin Top. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cabin Top. Show all posts

Tuesday, December 22, 2015

Why Independent Patterns - Fabric Lady's 2015 Top Indie Patterns!

As a family owned business, operating in Berkeley for the past 34 years, we love to support other independent businesses, especially when the patterns give us high-quality, unique choices for our wardrobe.

In the past, we have been held hostage to the big companies such as Simplicity and McCall's. Early on in the 1980's they began discounting heavily to the big chains making it very difficult for us to compete with these huge box stores in our own neighborhood - do you remember when they started having 70% off sales? This was part of the reason so many family run fabric stores have gone out of business over the last 3 decades across the United States.

Fast forward to the last few years; many designers have heard our plea for quality patterns that consider our different body types and lifestyles. Now, we have a full selection patterns made by creative and caring people. We love meeting these pattern makers, following them on social media and feeling connected to them when we use their patterns. It brings our sewing community closer together.

Indie Pattern Month and Year 2016 Celebrations
Join us in celebrating the Year of the Independent Pattern in 2016!
We are kicking off the year with a month long celebration in January. Join us each day on our Instagram and Facebook to learn about our independent pattern lines and see what others have created from them.  Stop by our pattern table to view all of the amazing indie pattern lines we stock. You can find them in our store or online - they are all up and available!

To inspire us, I have collected my favorite indie patterns we used this year. Take a look at our round-up and learn more about the patterns in our blogs about them.

I also want to thank my dear friend and collaborator, Laurel of Laurels Quill for all her designing, sewing, blogging and our famous lunches together. The journey would not be nearly as sweet and inspiring without you! What a couple years this has been and I so look forward to the magic of 2016 ahead!


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FABRIC: Textured polyester 'Mello' knit 
WHAT WE LOVE ABOUT IT:
Want a top that you can whip out in a few hours?  We found the Uptown Top, a pattern from our newly added indie pattern company, A Verb for Keeping Warm.  It's a simple top to make, especially if you use a soft knit that you don't need to serge or zig zag the seams. The pattern includes three sizes, but even the smallest size is very generous.
This top is so easy, the neck can be finished with its facing or you could use a simple bias strip. We made our Uptown Top with the band at the bottom, making it long enough to wear with leggings.  You can leave off the band and wear it with pants or jeans as the pattern makers suggest.


READ MORE ABOUT IT HERE: 
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Endless Summer Tunic by A Verb For Keeping Warm


FABRIC: Indian block print batik cotton gauze 
WHAT WE LOVE ABOUT IT:
We are all over the ethnic look for this summer.  Some of our imported gauze fabrics from India are just perfect to get that free-flowing look so prevalent in the 60's and 70's.  And the best part is that they never seem to go out of style and are perfect for any age!
 And since we're gaga over gauze, we thought A Verb for Keeping Warm's "Endless summer Tunic" would be fun to make up in a cotton gauze.

READ MORE ABOUT IT HERE: 
Loving the ethnic fabric and free flowing ease! 

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 Cabin Top by Blueprints For Sewing


FABRIC: Rayon Challis 
WHAT WE LOVE ABOUT IT: 
Blueprints for Sewing patterns are simple, flattering, comfortable, and classic with an artistic edge. They emphasize functionality and simplicity and feature thoughtful embellishments and adaptable cuts. Each pattern takes its inspiration from an architectural style.
The Cabin Top takes its inspiration from the simplicity of a cabin - a humble structure, built to provide shelter from the elements.  Spending time in a cabin "allows the mind to wander," says pattern maker, Taylor.  Thus, the Cabin top is a simple and functional top that will allow you to make it uniquely your own through fabric choice.

READ MORE ABOUT IT HERE:
The Cabin Top 
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 Myrtle by Colette


FABRIC: Rayon Knit 
WHAT WE LOVE ABOUT IT:
I've said it before, I love wearing dresses to work!
Separates are still fun to expand your wardrobe, but it's so much easier to pick out a dress from your closet in the early morning hours. I don't have to think about what goes with what. My biggest decisions are what shoes to wear, tights or not, and do I need a sweater?
Dresses are a great uniform! Find a style that you love and make it up in a variety of fabrics. We love that about sewing - you can really make the clothing you wear your own. 

Our independent pattern designers always have something new to chose from when I'm looking for a fresh frock. I love the variety of styles available these days from indie designers. Each designer and pattern has its own personality and flare to inspire you. The Myrtle dress from Colette looked like such an easy, comfortable and elegant style, and I had the perfect knit in mind for it. 

READ MORE ABOUT IT HERE:
My Sweet Myrtle Dress 
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FABRIC: Woven Cotton 'Peppered Plaid'
WHAT WE LOVE ABOUT IT:
Colette has added to her easy yet visually interesting designs with the Dahlia dress. We love the detailing at the waist. We chose a soft, but large scale plaid for the Dahlia, perfect for my fall season mood.  Be sure to check out the other colors this "Peppered Plaid" comes in!
Our independent designers shine in the dress design arena, so I enjoy featuring their unique dress designs in my work wardrobe.

READ MORE ABOUT IT HERE:

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FABRIC: Cotton Ikats 
WHAT WE LOVE ABOUT IT:
We already made several dresses, a couple of pairs of pants, and even a woven t-shirt. This month we're adding to the "dress revolution" by using Colette Patterns' Laurel dress.   It's a beginner pattern, and several of our staff have already made up this "chic and simple" dress with a semi-fitted shape.
We wanted to make use of coordinating ikat patterns, just to add some cool color blocking to this simple dress.
The dress has a back zipper which allows you to adjust the fit if needed and gives you the opportunity to add a cool contrasting zipper for fun.  It didn't take Laurel long to whip out this dress for a fitting.  I had worn a pair of my favorite leggings that day - I love the combination of dresses and leggings, even in the summer.

READ MORE ABOUT IT HERE: 
Can't Get Enough Ikat?! Neither Can We! 

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FABRIC: Cotton Print 
WHAT WE LOVE ABOUT IT:
One of our favorite sewing pattern lines for retro and vintage fashion is Decades of Style. Though some of the mid-century dress lines have a lot of seaming detail, such as our Object d'Art Dress from last year, these clever folks have come out with an easy sewing line called Decades Everyday.  It's like they read our minds - "Give me a retro look pattern that I can sew in a day and wear every day!"

READ MORE ABOUT IT HERE: 
Modern Take on a Retro Dress - E.S.P. by Decades of Style!

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FABRIC: Cotton + Steel Rayon  
WHAT WE LOVE ABOUT IT:
I chose a soft rayon in a black and white geometric print.  So many of our sewists used two different fabrics - one print or solid for the yoke and a different fabric for the main body of the dress.  I wanted to try making it all in one fabric, but perhaps with a small pop of color. Piping, maybe?
Piping? Yes! We loved this bright chartreuse in 100% cotton. We cut bias strips along the polka dot portion of the fabric then folded and pressed it carefully.

READ MORE ABOUT IT HERE:  
Give This Dress A Chance!

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Datura Blouse by Deer & Doe


FABRIC: Silk Crepe 
WHAT WE LOVE ABOUT IT:
We love this Deer and Doe Datura sleeveless blouse pattern from France. It's not especially difficult to work up even though the pattern envelope's "Advanced" description must have applied to using fabric with a soft hand, such as silk. (A soft woven cotton or rayon would be a great fabric to try first, if you're apprehensive). We will admit that the pattern instructions are very French - brief and to the point - and they perhaps assume that we are indeed advanced sewists. Even Laurel had to interpret the not-so-detailed instructions, applying construction techniques that she has been using for years.

READ MORE ABOUT IT HERE: 
Developing a "Hand" for Silk - 5 Rules to Follow!

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FABRIC: Cotton Cross Dye 
WHAT WE LOVE ABOUT IT:
This month, Grainline Studio's Scout Tee caught our eye. It's not very often that you find a tee pattern that is designed specifically for woven fabrics, so we thought we'd give it a try.
We chose a soft lightweight cotton lawn.  The pattern has a lower back hemline than the front, short cap sleeves and works up in a jiffy. It's the perfect little tee for the beginning sewist.  In fact, we're even teaching a class specifically on this pattern in August and October!

READ MORE ABOUT IT HERE: 
Summer Tees

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FABRIC: Textured Scuba Knit 
WHAT WE LOVE ABOUT IT:
We're still working on our blog about this pattern, but we've already finished two versions of it! It's already a staff favorite and we have a new class featuring this pattern. Check it out!


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FABRIC: Red Ponte Knit
WHAT WE LOVE ABOUT IT:
The dress features princess seams, a keyhole front and cap sleeves - and no zipper! It's not a difficult dress to make at all, but it takes time to do all the top stitching of the seams.  You could eliminate that step, but we think that's what makes the Davie dress special. This is a dress that you could make in one day (start in the morning and be party-ready by 5:00). It took Laurel about 4-5 hours to complete.

READ MORE ABOUT IT HERE: 

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 Hudson Pant by The Sewing Workshop


FABRIC: Cotton Ikat 
WHAT WE LOVE ABOUT IT:
The Sewing Workshop's Hudson Pant is very loose fitting, ankle length pant with an elastic waist which are all factors to make this pant super comfortable. Not having to wear tight-fitting pants for work is certainly appealing.
Best part of these pants other than the ninety minutes it takes to make them? The long darts that go from the calf down to the ankle.  This great detailing keeps the comfortable pants from looking too slouchy.
 
READ MORE ABOUT IT HERE: 
Can't Get Enough Ikat?! Neither Can We!

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FABRIC: Cotton Ikat and Cross Dye 
WHAT WE LOVE ABOUT IT:
I loved this new Victory Pattern, the Chloe No. 1005 Dress.  It is an intermediate level project suitable for woven fabrics like Ikat - other cottons or knits would work too.
We wanted to make our Chloe a little edgy by combining Ikat with a complimentary solid woven fabric. I love the combination of purple and green, especially if the hues are a little "off" color. You might think that this combination doesn't occur in nature, but it does. So why not combine these gorgeous olive Ikat prints with a solid purple woven?  Even though the purple does not occur in the Ikat, it doesn't matter.  The purple gives the olive Ikat that pop of color that will make my Chloe dress unique!

READ MORE ABOUT IT HERE:  

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 Satsuki by Victory Patterns


FABRIC: Silk Knit 
WHAT WE LOVE ABOUT IT:
Here's another of my favorite patterns - Victory's Satsuki dress. We've made it as both a dress and a top.  I love the comfort and style of this design. (Are you starting to see a pattern here - "comfort" and "ease?") But I also love the femininity of this design.  Whatever your body type, it will be flattering.
So why mess with success? I found this wonderful silk knit during one of my buying trips and I loved the way the print almost had an ombre look.  I immediately thought of the Satsuki dress.

READ MORE ABOUT IT HERE: 

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Check out our classes featuring some of these awesome patterns!

Thanks for being a fabric lover and following my blog. 
I would love to hear from you about patterns and your projects!

love and creativity,
Suzan



Tuesday, December 15, 2015

The Cabin Top

Blueprints for Sewing patterns are simple, flattering, comfortable, and classic with an artistic edge. They emphasize functionality and simplicity and feature thoughtful embellishments and adaptable cuts. Each pattern takes its inspiration from an architectural style.

The Cabin Top takes its inspiration from the simplicity of a cabin - a humble structure, built to provide shelter from the elements.  Spending time in a cabin "allows the mind to wander," says pattern maker, Taylor.  Thus, the Cabin top is a simple and functional top that will allow you to make it uniquely your own through fabric choice.

The Cabin is a basic, flattering shape, enhanced with French darts and a box pleat in the back. The neckline, sleeves, and hemline are finished with bias tape, either out of a package or self made.


I chose a vibrant black and white geometric rayon challis print to work up in this pattern, as an active print goes well with this simple design.  Laurel used basic single fold bias tape to finish the edges, turning it completely to the under side so it does not show (as opposed to binding the edges with bias that will show, like for contrast). The pattern calls for the bias tape to act as a binding around the neckline, sleeves and hemline, so the black binding would show through this tow colored print.  Because this fabric was so "silky", we opted to make it more dressy by using the tape like a facing to hold the shape of the neckline.


The back features a narrow yoke at the shoulders. We cut the yoke on the fabric's crossgrain to give greater interest to the back of this top and show off its seams.  The box pleat in the back is secured with a tiny stitched triangle. 


French darts create a beautiful semi-fitted slim silhouette.


Just to show you how you can make this simple style your very own, let's look at Laurel's version of the Cabin Top. She chose three fabrics, all in rayon. She made her own bias tape and chose to use it as a binding to help "ground" the business of the two other fabric choices and yet contrasting so that the overall artistically look she is going for is achieved. She also added some design elements just to have all the fabrics play off each other.

A triangle of contrasting fabric  int he front, mimicking the back, and the cutest buttons... 


...the small triangle of fabric in the back in the contrasting print...
  

....makes for a uniquely artistic Cabin Top!

We can also see this top in a color block of solid fabrics  The solid colors would really highlight the pattern's design. So many possibilities!

Colette and Zanikan hanging out in the sewing studio. 



Creatively yours,
Suzan

Monday, September 14, 2015

It's why we sew...

A few weeks ago my seamstress and friend Laurel came down for one of our fitting/lunch/wardrobe planning days at Stonemountain. Over lunch she recounted a window shopping day she had recently, on the search for a dress to wear to her high school reunion this coming fall. In fact, her hubby' reunion in Texas is later this year, so she was on the hunt for some ideas - you know, one of those smashing little dresses that will make the old girlfriend ever so slightly jealous (LOL!).

Even if we make the majority of our wardrobe, sometimes we just want to see how ready to wear styles might look on our frame. That's why we window shop, trying on dresses to help us imagine what we might wear to a special occasion.  If we're lucky, we might even score a new dress off the rack. But because we sew and are able to recognize quality fabrics and good workmanship when we see them, even window shopping can be a disappointment. Laurel's recent expedition was not without challenges.

First, how do you even find anything? 
With the sheer number of choices, you would think you should be able to find one dress you like...


Second issue: who wants to show up for the party looking like everyone else?




You want something unique, but most of us who are of a certain age 
can't imagine some of today's "styles" working on our bodies...


For Laurel, many of the designs were not suitable for the "knock 'em dead" look she was after. We can image wearing this simple sheath design, but its way too corporate business looking for a party...


This fabric was unique and feminine, BUT unless you're twenty something,
it's way too short.


Conclusion: Making the perfect dress is why we sew! When we see a gorgeous piece of fabric,  we imagine all sorts of garments that we could create.  And best of all, we know it's unlikely that we will see someone with the same outfit across the dance floor.  Our creations are unique to us.  They fit us like a glove.  They speak to who we are as designers and sewists.

Two sewists can use the same pattern and just by changing the fabric make the garment unique to themselves.  For instance, we've had this unique La Fred Helena dress hanging in our shop for quite some time, but it just caught Laurel's eye this month.




Laurel chose a gorgeous rayon knit to make one for herself. 
You won't find this print in the department stores, so her dress will be uniquely her.
It won't be worn for her reunion, but it's a perfect example of why we make our own dresses instead of buying off the rack.

I too love a dress that will speak to the Berkley girl that I am.  Sometimes the pattern is classic but a fresh take on fabric brings it to life all over again. For instance, take this Boho Chic look that's been around for ages: Vogue 9124.


Let's make it up in a gorgeous rayon border print. 
 I can't wait to see how Laurel works the fabric's border into the design!


The fall season is just around the corner, so it was inevitable that we would get distracted away from the "Reunion Dress Mission".  Fall speaks to each of us in different ways - the colors and textures of fall fabrics are infinite. We chose this silk knit first because of its unique color block pattern.  So why not pair it with a solid fabric and make a color blocked top with Vogue 9067 to wear with some nice black jeans?  So very fall...so very Laurel! 













After our day of wardrobe planning and dreaming, we still didn't find the right look for Laurel's two reunion events this fall, but we were off to a good start with this fabulous silk...it's definitely a show stopper.  Stonemountain often stocks these one-of a kind fabrics - I think a long flowing maxi skirt could be the ticket. It's a definite "maybe".


There's nothing complex about picking out just the right look and fabric for a special occasion:  You go with what strikes your fancy. Fabric speaks to those of us who listen. The option of facing jammed aisles of ready made dresses is often overwhelming - it's so "noisy". But a wall of beautiful fabrics...touching them...holding them up to our face; we can see the image of our garment start to take shape. We are creating something uniquely us...an outward expression of our inner soul and spirit - it's almost magic.

And it's WHY we sew.

Creatively yours,

SuZan

Cabin Top
Take a look at some of the fabulous garments we have been creating - you just can't buy these in the stores! What are you ready to make for Fall?
         
Given a Chance Dress!