Yes, you can make jeans!

With so many people sewing garments again, it should be no surprise that sewing jeans is a big success! There is no other article of clothing that is more ubiquitous in closets around the world than jeans. And for that, we probably should give a shout out to the masters and creators of this wardrobe staple, Jacob Davis and Levi Strauss who made the term "jeans" a household word.

Originally made for workwear, jeans have evolved from the rugged denim pants of years ago to high fashion wardrobe necessities. Much clever marketing has highlighted the changes in jeans over the years and even a few spoofs...

Who can forget SNL's "Mom Jeans"?

Today, we have jeans that are "not your daughter's", ripped, faded, low rise, high rise, button fly, skinny, stretch, pull-on, etc. etc. We wear them everywhere, we cut them off, we stitch and patch them, and basically wear them until they are in shreds. Jeans are the perfect layer for comfort, fit, style, and all the activities that feed our soul.

And now, yes, we make them ourselves! It used to be rather a badge of honor among sewists—"I made my jeans!"—particularly because it was thought that all those pockets, fly openings, and top stitching were somehow too difficult to manage. But as indie pattern designers began jumping on the jeans bandwagon, more sewists (young and old) gathered the courage to at least attempt to make a pair of jeans. And therein lies the secret—you actually have to sew a pair to really appreciate that when taken step by step, jeans are not that difficult and certainly a lot of fun to sew!

Three things make sewing your own jeans a true joy:

1. The sheer variety of patterns to choose from
2. All the fabulous fabrics available (jeans don't have to be made from denim!)
3. Topstitching! 

There is also so much help available—from sewing tools to community support. Pick up a kit with everything you need, then go check out the Instagram hashtag #nofearnewjeans for inspiration, and you're ready to tackle sewing jeans!

What pattern to pick?

The first thing to do when picking a jeans pattern is considering the fit. How do you wear your jeans? Do you like a relaxed, boyfriend style like the Morgan Jeans from Closet Case Files or a slim line like the Safran Pants from Deer and Doe? One of the most popular jeans patterns, the Ginger Jeans by Closet Case Patterns, has a classic fit with a number of options that suit nearly every wardrobe and style (including mine!). And if you like to switch it up, patterns like the Dawn and Ash Jeans by Megan Nielsen give you enough options to make different jeans for every day of the week!

From Closet Case: Morgan and Ginger Jeans

 From Deer and Doe Patterns: Safran Pants

From Jalie: Eleonore Pull-on Jeans

From Megan Nielsen Patterns: Dawn and Ash Jeans

From Cashmerette Patterns: Ames Jeans

From Papercut Patterns: Otsu Jeans

With so many patterns to choose from, it can be hard to know where to start! We're always happy to help with choosing patterns and fabric—just stop by the store or shoot us an email at info@stonemountainfabric.com.

All about the fabric

When it comes to jeans, denim is obviously the star of the show. If you're making stretch jeans like the Ginger or Ash patterns, look for denim with spandex or lycra and 15-20% stretch.

A common misconception about stretch denim is that the spandex content determines the amount of stretch, but that isn't necessarily true! Our Robert Kaufman Super Stretch Denim 8.6oz - Indigo actually doesn't have spandex, yet it has 20% stretch and excellent recovery. And though the Cone Mills stretch denims shown below both have 1% spandex, the 11oz has 15% stretch and the 12oz has 10% stretch.

Cone Mills - 12oz Stretch Denim - Dark Indigo

Cone Mills - 11oz Stretch Denim - Indigo

If you're making a rigid jean like the Morgan or Dawn patterns, look for 100% cotton and pay attention to the weight. 10oz is a good medium weight that will make comfortable, everyday jeans while a heavier weight like 14oz will make more rugged and stiffer jeans.

And remember—denim is only the starting point! When you make your own jeans they can be made out of practically anything. Laurel made a pair of Morgan Jeans out of a printed cotton/linen blend and they turned out amazing!

Topstitching is like icing on the cake

All jeans, whether RTW or handmade, feature at least some topstitching. You can go the subtle route and pick topstitching thread to match your fabric, or go all out with some neon thread! Choosing the right thread for your jeans is what makes them unique to you.

My Safran Jeans with a pop of pink to highlight those cool pockets.

Liz's neon pink-accented Ginger Jeans

Our favorite thread for topstitching is Mara 70—it's lighter than Mara 30 so it's easier to sew with on home machines, but it has enough weight to stand out.

Our rainbow of Mara 70 top stitching thread

Mara 70 thread in Rust on Catherine's non-stretch jeans

Jump on the jeans making bandwagon!

There's something so powerful about wearing jeans that are made just for you. No more fitting room struggles or paying hundreds of dollars for jeans that don't fit quite right. 

Our Lladybird Ginger Jean Kit has everything you need!

Some of our favorite jean makes!

Ginger Jeans are so easy to wear!

Love these Safran Jeans on Lauren!

Olivia got a perfect fit on her Ginger Jeans!

Catherine made a pair of button-fly Dawn Jeans!

Liz made these Ginger Jeans in a class with @lladybird!

Lauren made these amazing Morgan Jeans too!

My Safran Jeans and Tea House Top

I hope that you see that you can make jeans!

Thanks for reading along,

Suzan

Owner, Stonemountain & Daughter Fabrics in Berkeley, CA

2518 Shattuck Ave. @ Dwight Way

fabriclady3@gmail.com

Come visit us in downtown Berkeley or our website!

If it matters, it's worth doing right!

Over the years we have talked about making muslins.  Not every garment needs a "trial run" to test the fit, but when you're not sure, it's better to make a muslin before cutting into your final fabric.  A good fit matters if we are to show our best selves.  The right style for our body type also matters, if we want to reflect who we really are.  And of course, our time matters, if we don't want to waste it making clothes that we will never wear.

Wearable Muslin

We like "wearable" muslins.  Why not make your trial pattern out of a less expensive fabric, but not so cheap and thin that it doesn't reflect a comparable outcome.  If you are eventually making a knit dress, by all means use a similar knit to make your muslin.  If it ends up fitting or just needing some minor adjustments, then you could end up with two garments.

You can ask any sewist what is the hardest garment to fit and it will be usually be pants. There are sewists/teachers who have devoted hours of instruction on making pants that fit...pants that flatter your figure...and pants that you will wear. The only way to ensure a modicum of success is to make a muslin first: if it's worth your time and energy, then it's worth doing right. Right?!

Lander Pants

Sometimes we are just not sure how a pant will look on our body shape.  There are so many variations of leg widths and lengths.  Big wide legs are trending this season, and True Bias's Lander pants are really popular – they have a little retro vibe that fits right into my Destiny Wardrobe. We've had some missteps with pants on my shape in the past (we even scrapped a finished pair once, they looked so awful), so now we always make a muslin.

We used an inexpensive bottom weight cotton to make our muslin.  The pattern's instructions are easy to follow and pretty simple to make.

Love the button fly front.

During the fitting process, we determined that the waist was probably a little big...

Nice fit in the seat, though!

I think these are a keeper!

Morgan Jeans

Making a muslin for jeans pattern is a no-brainer – jeans are fun, but they do have some tricky areas that you may want to test your skills during a trial run.  Closet Case's Morgan jeans are made with fabrics that have NO stretch, so getting a good fit may require some adjustments – you won't have the stretch to hide the fitting issues.

Laurel chose this woven midweight cotton/linen canvas fabric to make her muslin.  I should mention that she's had the pattern for almost a year and has been intimidated to start a pair - all because of getting the right fit. (Me-made jeans strike fear in even the expert sewists!). "Fitting Fear" keeps a lot of us from making our Destiny Wardrobes – we just have to slow down, breathe and go for it.

After sewing the Morgan Jeans together, give them a spin by modeling them in front of another person.  Laurel thought they looked pretty good from the front, but her non-sewing husband pointed out that there were some strange wrinkles in the back.

After some online research, she determined that a "flat bottom" adjustment was needed – basically, scooping out the back crotch to lower the natural curve. This is why we make muslins - she was able to correct the booty wrinkles. When you are ready for another pair, check out the Morgan Jeans Kit from Stonemountain complete with hardware!

Inari Tee Dress

Another reason to make a muslin is to ensure that a particular style ends up looking like what you expected. Everyone has a different body type, and just because the photo of a garment pattern looks great, it may not really work in reality. We love Named's "Inari" Tee dress and Crop Tee.  But not everyone can pull off a crop top.

Cutest look ever, but am I too old for this?!?

Only one way to find out.  We used some rayon scraps to make a muslin, and knowing that we might be a tad "mature" for that belly-showing thing, we cut the pattern a little longer. We also added a little width at the bottom.  The result is cute, but we're still not too sure if this fits our Destiny Wardrobe mindset.

Experiment and Be Brave

Not every muslin try will be successful, but that's the whole point.  We want our wardrobe and our garments to say something about who we are.  If they don't fit correctly or they just aren't rockin' on our bodies, then why bother. Sewing clothes that matter means that you take the time to chose carefully, both in fabrics and patterns. Do experiment with different styles – you might be surprised what looks good – that little dress that you thought would make you look frumpy might just be the right-sized pattern for you! We don't always know what we like until we see it for ourselves. So be brave, and make a muslin! Nothing ventured, nothing gained.

As always, I am standing with you 
celebrating your creative potential.

Suzan Steinberg

Owner, Stonemountain & Daughter Fabrics in Berkeley CA

Stay in touch and email me at fabriclady3@gmail.com

Feeling Fall-ish - What's up next! (plus a sneak peak at the Kimono of the Year!)

There's an awareness of change in the air when "Ber" months arrive - September, October, November, and December. We witness Mother Earth's change in her color palette as the days become shorter and the first rain falls.  I suppose there are some who don't welcome the autumnal glimpses around, perhaps signaling an end to our flip-flops, sandals, sundresses, soft tanks, and tee-shirts.  But don't include us among those naysayers, for as much as we love Summer, we love the coming of Fall.

Fall offers the brightest array of seasonal color choices. We love the traditional browns and golds, but there is a wide range of color choices to suit even the pickiest of fashionistas. As we move toward the cooler days, we haven't forgotten the importance of layering - so in picking our next pattern designs and fabrics, we know there will always be a great jacket, sweater, warm tights or boots to add to any garment. More than anything, Fall is a time to wear the colors of Mother Earth in all her splendor.

The rich hues of reflected water is always a go-to choice in fabric...especially for me.

We chose this beautiful silk noil to make another Hadley Top, by Grainline Studio.

Hadley Top with the Alberta Street Skirt!

Silk Noil is a fabulous choice for many garments!
Check out the amazing collection of colors on this link!

Two great necklines on this perfect Hadley!

We already made a Hadley once before (and in the perfect Fall colors) out of an amazing yarn dyed cotton from Anna Maria Horner.

Check out the entire Loominous collection!

Stop by and see this Hadley top and the Safran jeans on display at Stonemountain & Daughter!

Another lovely rayon print in the blue/green palette. We love prints that feature elements from nature, such as these tiny branches. There are so many rayons to choose from!

We decided to pair this flowy fabric with the beautiful Tea House Dress by Sew House Seven.

I also have a gorgeous Tea House made in an ikat.  Stop by and see it on display at Stonemountain!

Love the feel and fit of this dress!

We love the typical colors that exemplify Fall too...those beautiful, rusts, oranges, and golds. We may not in be New England, but we can enjoy our West Coast autumns!

As it often happens, Laurel is making this same dress, the Tea House Dress, in a beautiful gold rayon print - this color palette is very popular this Fall. So Autumn!!

Link to this amazing Rayon!

Even though we like to wear dark colors all year round, they are especially appropriate in the Fall.  And you know me - I gotta have me some Black in my wardrobe.  I love this new Ikat and thought I would make a lightweight jacket for layering.

Cotton Ikats - You can never have too many!

We chose to try another Papercut pattern, the Kochi Kimono.  This jacket is a boxy cropped jacket for all seasons and it will make a nice lightweight addition to any layered look for work. You can make the jacket lined also, but we will just use the unstructured unlined version.

This could be the pattern of the season! The Kochi Kimono!

All together! The Silk Noil Hadley Top, Kochi Kimono and the Alberta Street Skirt!

Some clothes just feel so good on immediately!

The back of the Kochi Kimono is just right!

All together with my shortsleeve high neck knit top from Jalie!

Uh oh I made need more Kochis!!!

And perhaps something to wear underneath that jacket? How about a soft knit turtleneck tee by Jalie.  Love this black knit, and I know I'll probably wear it to death! So many knits to choose from at this link!

No more buying turtlenecks! Check out this new Jalie Pattern!

Jalie 2805

Of course you'll never go wrong picking any fabric in navy.  We wanted to try another Sew House Seven pattern, The Alberta Street pencil skirt.

What a great pattern! The Alberta Street Pencil Skirt!

This skirt is a very fitted unlined skirt that sits just below the waist with a tapered hem just below the knees - perfect for either tights or boots or both! And we chose a stretch denim of course - you can never have enough denim!!

Just a sampling of the amazing cotton woven "bottom weights" available for this skirt!

Hadley Top with my new favorite Jean Skirt!

Look at the drape on this Silk Noil Hadley Top?!

Looks like we're getting a good start on our Fall wardrobe, right? The beauty of sewing is that we can create garments that all go together!

As an aside, we are so grateful for being part of a wonderful sewing community and that we have the skills, creativity and tools to be able to sew a wardrobe.  As much as we love our Mother Nature, we know that she can be harsh. Our thoughts are with the communities hit by these devastating California fires, knowing that there are many sewists among those who lost their homes along with their precious "me-mades", stashes and machines. I personally had a brush with that harsh reality when my own home and neighborhood was threatened by fire last month.  But we were lucky. I send all our friends and North State customers touched by this devastation my biggest Stonemountain hug.

Peace, Love, and Prosperity,

SuZan Steinberg
fabriclady3@gmail.com
Stonemountain & Daughter Fabrics since 1981
Living the Dream Life of a Fabric Lover