Yes, you can make jeans!

With so many people sewing garments again, it should be no surprise that sewing jeans is a big success! There is no other article of clothing that is more ubiquitous in closets around the world than jeans. And for that, we probably should give a shout out to the masters and creators of this wardrobe staple, Jacob Davis and Levi Strauss who made the term "jeans" a household word.

Originally made for workwear, jeans have evolved from the rugged denim pants of years ago to high fashion wardrobe necessities. Much clever marketing has highlighted the changes in jeans over the years and even a few spoofs...

Who can forget SNL's "Mom Jeans"?

Today, we have jeans that are "not your daughter's", ripped, faded, low rise, high rise, button fly, skinny, stretch, pull-on, etc. etc. We wear them everywhere, we cut them off, we stitch and patch them, and basically wear them until they are in shreds. Jeans are the perfect layer for comfort, fit, style, and all the activities that feed our soul.

And now, yes, we make them ourselves! It used to be rather a badge of honor among sewists—"I made my jeans!"—particularly because it was thought that all those pockets, fly openings, and top stitching were somehow too difficult to manage. But as indie pattern designers began jumping on the jeans bandwagon, more sewists (young and old) gathered the courage to at least attempt to make a pair of jeans. And therein lies the secret—you actually have to sew a pair to really appreciate that when taken step by step, jeans are not that difficult and certainly a lot of fun to sew!

Three things make sewing your own jeans a true joy:

1. The sheer variety of patterns to choose from
2. All the fabulous fabrics available (jeans don't have to be made from denim!)
3. Topstitching! 

There is also so much help available—from sewing tools to community support. Pick up a kit with everything you need, then go check out the Instagram hashtag #nofearnewjeans for inspiration, and you're ready to tackle sewing jeans!

What pattern to pick?

The first thing to do when picking a jeans pattern is considering the fit. How do you wear your jeans? Do you like a relaxed, boyfriend style like the Morgan Jeans from Closet Case Files or a slim line like the Safran Pants from Deer and Doe? One of the most popular jeans patterns, the Ginger Jeans by Closet Case Patterns, has a classic fit with a number of options that suit nearly every wardrobe and style (including mine!). And if you like to switch it up, patterns like the Dawn and Ash Jeans by Megan Nielsen give you enough options to make different jeans for every day of the week!

From Closet Case: Morgan and Ginger Jeans

 From Deer and Doe Patterns: Safran Pants

From Jalie: Eleonore Pull-on Jeans

From Megan Nielsen Patterns: Dawn and Ash Jeans

From Cashmerette Patterns: Ames Jeans

From Papercut Patterns: Otsu Jeans

With so many patterns to choose from, it can be hard to know where to start! We're always happy to help with choosing patterns and fabric—just stop by the store or shoot us an email at info@stonemountainfabric.com.

All about the fabric

When it comes to jeans, denim is obviously the star of the show. If you're making stretch jeans like the Ginger or Ash patterns, look for denim with spandex or lycra and 15-20% stretch.

A common misconception about stretch denim is that the spandex content determines the amount of stretch, but that isn't necessarily true! Our Robert Kaufman Super Stretch Denim 8.6oz - Indigo actually doesn't have spandex, yet it has 20% stretch and excellent recovery. And though the Cone Mills stretch denims shown below both have 1% spandex, the 11oz has 15% stretch and the 12oz has 10% stretch.

Cone Mills - 12oz Stretch Denim - Dark Indigo

Cone Mills - 11oz Stretch Denim - Indigo

If you're making a rigid jean like the Morgan or Dawn patterns, look for 100% cotton and pay attention to the weight. 10oz is a good medium weight that will make comfortable, everyday jeans while a heavier weight like 14oz will make more rugged and stiffer jeans.

And remember—denim is only the starting point! When you make your own jeans they can be made out of practically anything. Laurel made a pair of Morgan Jeans out of a printed cotton/linen blend and they turned out amazing!

Topstitching is like icing on the cake

All jeans, whether RTW or handmade, feature at least some topstitching. You can go the subtle route and pick topstitching thread to match your fabric, or go all out with some neon thread! Choosing the right thread for your jeans is what makes them unique to you.

My Safran Jeans with a pop of pink to highlight those cool pockets.

Liz's neon pink-accented Ginger Jeans

Our favorite thread for topstitching is Mara 70—it's lighter than Mara 30 so it's easier to sew with on home machines, but it has enough weight to stand out.

Our rainbow of Mara 70 top stitching thread

Mara 70 thread in Rust on Catherine's non-stretch jeans

Jump on the jeans making bandwagon!

There's something so powerful about wearing jeans that are made just for you. No more fitting room struggles or paying hundreds of dollars for jeans that don't fit quite right. 

Our Lladybird Ginger Jean Kit has everything you need!

Some of our favorite jean makes!

Ginger Jeans are so easy to wear!

Love these Safran Jeans on Lauren!

Olivia got a perfect fit on her Ginger Jeans!

Catherine made a pair of button-fly Dawn Jeans!

Liz made these Ginger Jeans in a class with @lladybird!

Lauren made these amazing Morgan Jeans too!

My Safran Jeans and Tea House Top

I hope that you see that you can make jeans!

Thanks for reading along,

Suzan

Owner, Stonemountain & Daughter Fabrics in Berkeley, CA

2518 Shattuck Ave. @ Dwight Way

fabriclady3@gmail.com

Come visit us in downtown Berkeley or our website!

Must-Have Garment Makes

How many things in your life are non-negotiable? We could all list several character items that ultimately define who we are as a person - trustworthiness, loyalty, being loved and valued, living in the moment,  making a contribution, etc. Whatever thing you might think of, we know instinctively they are important to us, as we come back to them over and over again when we are looking for friends, a partner, or even a new endeavor.

"Must-have" or  "I need it now" things are probably negotiable, in truth.  But when we see something we like, it feels non-negotiable. We are drawn to it like honey and we know in hearts that "It is Right."  Our garments reflect choices that make us feel better about ourselves and express our creativity and uniqueness. Most sewists would tell you that's why they make their own garments...to have that freedom of expression.  So "must haves" become non-negotiables - a particular hemline, a belted waistline or a certain sleeve design. Our choices revolve around those things that fulfill that image of ourselves in our brains—until the next big thing comes along.

Wardrobes constantly change, and therefore so does our list of must-haves. Maybe there are certain colors or shapes you don't usually gravitate towards, but it only takes someone saying "Dang, girl! You look amazing in that!" to inspire you to branch out.

One of the pluses (huge plus!) of my owning a fabric store is that new patterns and fabrics are a daily experience, so what used to be on my must-have list is in a constant state of flux.  I could almost have a new list of must-haves every season. So technically, all these looks below are not necessarily "non-negotiable," per se, but they are among the garments that to me are timeless and will always be a integral wardrobe staple of my wardrobe. I just change the fabric, perhaps do a small pattern hack and Voila! Something new!

So what is on my list of "Must-Haves?

1.) A good, lightweight coat...

The Pilvi by Lotta Jansdottercoat is so simple to make 

and just by changing up the color, the fabric, the length, you can make it your own.

Fabrics to make your Pilvi - Boiled Wool, Linen, Denim,
Kolkata Textured Cotton Cloth, Indian Kantha Cloth

2.) A great tee-shirt...The Scout Tee!

Who says you can't make a tee-shirt in crushed velvet?

The Scout Tee is designed for woven fabrics.

The Lark Tee by Grainline is a close fitting knit tee, in either short sleeves, 3/4, or long.

The Lark Tee

3.) A pair of "you were born for those" jeans...

Love these pockets on the Safran Jeans by Deer and Doe

The Morgan Jeans by Closet Case patterns are designed for non-stretch fabrics.

Probably the most popular ever pair of Jeans - The Ginger Jeans, by Closet Case.

4.) An ever-versatile casual dress...

Dress No.1by 100 Acts of Sewing - we've made this pattern so often in many different fabrics!

I highly recommend the E.S.P. Dress by Decades of Style in a fun fabric you have been stashing!

5.) A pair of go-to pants...

Pant's No. 1 by 100 Acts of Sewing - sew simple!!
Shown with my all time favorite Tea House Dress or Top, by Sew House Seven - just amazing, right?!

My new favorite - Lander Pants by True Bias

and 6.) Something that reflects your inner soul...

The Metamorphic Dress by Sew Liberated. Her patterns are amazing!

And since our wardrobes change with the seasons and with new patterns and fabrics, we can update our "Must-Have" list any time we are moved to do so. So many patterns, so little time! Of course I keep a list of Must-Have fabrics - you can pretty much see what they are the minute you walk into the store.

Cotton Ikat...

Rayon of my dreams...

One of my favorites - the Cinema Dress by Leisl + Co

I've got Linen on my mind... 

What are your Must-Haves in your wardrobe?  Do you change it up very often or do you stick with TNT (Tried and True) patterns and fabrics?  I have learned that my tastes have changed over the years, mostly because I am surrounded by a knock-your-socks-off staff, a whole cache of cyber-sewist friends, and a willingness to put myself out there. Whatever your particular "destiny" or life-calling, you were made to do this:  to be a wardrobe trendsetter, to let your me-makes speak your own personal truth. And by all means, keep that mental list flexible and be open to new designs and new fabrics.

All that being said, my only true "Non-negotiable" is being at peace with my surroundings - don't really care what I'm wearing...

I love you, Mother Nature!

Love always,

Suzan

If it matters, it's worth doing right!

Over the years we have talked about making muslins.  Not every garment needs a "trial run" to test the fit, but when you're not sure, it's better to make a muslin before cutting into your final fabric.  A good fit matters if we are to show our best selves.  The right style for our body type also matters, if we want to reflect who we really are.  And of course, our time matters, if we don't want to waste it making clothes that we will never wear.

Wearable Muslin

We like "wearable" muslins.  Why not make your trial pattern out of a less expensive fabric, but not so cheap and thin that it doesn't reflect a comparable outcome.  If you are eventually making a knit dress, by all means use a similar knit to make your muslin.  If it ends up fitting or just needing some minor adjustments, then you could end up with two garments.

You can ask any sewist what is the hardest garment to fit and it will be usually be pants. There are sewists/teachers who have devoted hours of instruction on making pants that fit...pants that flatter your figure...and pants that you will wear. The only way to ensure a modicum of success is to make a muslin first: if it's worth your time and energy, then it's worth doing right. Right?!

Lander Pants

Sometimes we are just not sure how a pant will look on our body shape.  There are so many variations of leg widths and lengths.  Big wide legs are trending this season, and True Bias's Lander pants are really popular – they have a little retro vibe that fits right into my Destiny Wardrobe. We've had some missteps with pants on my shape in the past (we even scrapped a finished pair once, they looked so awful), so now we always make a muslin.

We used an inexpensive bottom weight cotton to make our muslin.  The pattern's instructions are easy to follow and pretty simple to make.

Love the button fly front.

During the fitting process, we determined that the waist was probably a little big...

Nice fit in the seat, though!

I think these are a keeper!

Morgan Jeans

Making a muslin for jeans pattern is a no-brainer – jeans are fun, but they do have some tricky areas that you may want to test your skills during a trial run.  Closet Case's Morgan jeans are made with fabrics that have NO stretch, so getting a good fit may require some adjustments – you won't have the stretch to hide the fitting issues.

Laurel chose this woven midweight cotton/linen canvas fabric to make her muslin.  I should mention that she's had the pattern for almost a year and has been intimidated to start a pair - all because of getting the right fit. (Me-made jeans strike fear in even the expert sewists!). "Fitting Fear" keeps a lot of us from making our Destiny Wardrobes – we just have to slow down, breathe and go for it.

After sewing the Morgan Jeans together, give them a spin by modeling them in front of another person.  Laurel thought they looked pretty good from the front, but her non-sewing husband pointed out that there were some strange wrinkles in the back.

After some online research, she determined that a "flat bottom" adjustment was needed – basically, scooping out the back crotch to lower the natural curve. This is why we make muslins - she was able to correct the booty wrinkles. When you are ready for another pair, check out the Morgan Jeans Kit from Stonemountain complete with hardware!

Inari Tee Dress

Another reason to make a muslin is to ensure that a particular style ends up looking like what you expected. Everyone has a different body type, and just because the photo of a garment pattern looks great, it may not really work in reality. We love Named's "Inari" Tee dress and Crop Tee.  But not everyone can pull off a crop top.

Cutest look ever, but am I too old for this?!?

Only one way to find out.  We used some rayon scraps to make a muslin, and knowing that we might be a tad "mature" for that belly-showing thing, we cut the pattern a little longer. We also added a little width at the bottom.  The result is cute, but we're still not too sure if this fits our Destiny Wardrobe mindset.

Experiment and Be Brave

Not every muslin try will be successful, but that's the whole point.  We want our wardrobe and our garments to say something about who we are.  If they don't fit correctly or they just aren't rockin' on our bodies, then why bother. Sewing clothes that matter means that you take the time to chose carefully, both in fabrics and patterns. Do experiment with different styles – you might be surprised what looks good – that little dress that you thought would make you look frumpy might just be the right-sized pattern for you! We don't always know what we like until we see it for ourselves. So be brave, and make a muslin! Nothing ventured, nothing gained.

As always, I am standing with you 
celebrating your creative potential.

Suzan Steinberg

Owner, Stonemountain & Daughter Fabrics in Berkeley CA

Stay in touch and email me at fabriclady3@gmail.com