Creating Dream Jeans: Getting Closer to Finishing the Ginger Jeans

We can shop for hours, days, or even weeks to find the perfect pair of jeans.  So it should come as no surprise that we decided to take the leap to make a pair ourselves. It was time to take a shot at making our dream jeans with all of the qualities and fit we've been searching for.  In late summer we started on a pair of Ginger Jeans by Closet Case Files by making a wearable muslin. Read that blog here!

We don't always use muslins for fittings, but when it comes to creating dream jeans, you better believe we are taking our time with fitting. We usually skip making a muslin when sewing patterns for knits or less fitted garments and make adjustments as needed on the final fabric, this is because the fit is more forgiving.

If you read back on our previous post about our muslin fitting, you'll see that we started with Version A of the Ginger Jeans - a low to mid-rise cut with a stovepipe fit in the leg. I was impressed with the fit of the Ginger muslin, but decide that I would prefer the higher-rise of View B. We decided it would be best to do an additional fitting on the final pair before Laurel finished them completely.

So we're back to the fitting room to make sure the fit is as dreamy as possible. What's the point of putting all that work into a pair of jeans and having the fit be a miss? To prepare for the final fitting, there are some aspects of the garment that can be done ahead of time. Laurel had a great time working on the bright blue topstitching and we are loving the pop of color!

Shop our neon topstitching thread here!

We chose a neon blue topstitching thread to go with our deep blue stretch denim, and every little thread shows, especially the wonky ones. Whenever your machine does develop a mind of its own and goes a little off, try to take a deep breath and let it go. In reality, nobody will see the mistakes that you do.

As you can see, we finished the fly front zipper, so we will not be adjusting our fit in the front panels for obvious reasons! We also sewed up the back seam, but did not finish it off with top stitching, so if we need to adjust the fit we can expand or narrow the seam. We also raised the pockets from our muslin fitting - pocket placement is everything for a flattering back view!

For the side seam allowance, we added a little width at the waist. Skinny jeans should be a snug fit, and we're guessing these might fit well in the hips but have gaps in the waist. We used a basting stitch to sew the two side seams and the inseam.

Let's give them a try!

This final fitting is important if we want our jeans to have the polish we expect. With the perfect fit, I'll be able to dress these jeans up for work with a blouse and blazer, or worn casually with a cozy sweater. The fabric is so soft and has a great stretch. Laurel should be able to take these back to her studio and put on the finishing touches.  I can't wait!

Want to make your own pair?

Try one of our amazing jean kits which include all the notions and findings you need.

Creatively Yours,

Suzan

Dreams Do Come True! Twelve Months of Fabulousness!

Looking back over the year, I have to say it has been incredible! Of course, there were many challenges, but overall the last twelve months were based on creativity, connection and joy! Owning a fabric store can be the best job ever. After 33 years in my family business, I feel blessed for the work that I do and more in tune with our mission to support the creative community around us. My own personal path has underlined the importance of kindness and the strength of feminine values in all aspects of my life, especially here at our store. I strive to make your experience at Stonemountain & Daughter an inspiration! I love working hard on creating classes for the garment sewist, quilter and crafter of all levels. My buying team is excited about buying for our customers and offering the best fabrics, notions, patterns and other accessories at the best value.

As much as the fabric is part of our family, so are the people I am blessed to work with. Natalie, our buyer and Mary Jane our operations manager, make coming to work a loving act! Our staff of 21 sales associates and 14 instructors make this one of the best stores around!

The other reason why 2014 was the best year ever, was my collaboration with Laurel of Laurels Quill. We started out with a shared commitment to inspire others to sew and create and it evolved into a deep friendship and love. Picking out fabrics, patterns, notions and putting it all together and then blogging about it…this is a dream come true! Thank you so much Laurel for sharing your talent not just with me and my closet, but with the world of sewing. What more is possible in 2015?

Fashion is one of those things that you have to think of in advance. Buyers and designers are always a season ahead of the retail customer, and buying fabric and designing and sewing a wardrobe is no different. In the bleak months of winter, we pondered the serene beauty of wintry weather and at the same time started thinking about Spring garments - admiring the soft woolens on the colder days, but  yearning for the warm sunshine when we could wear a light blouse...

Winter White

Pattern Layouts

Cotton Voile Blouse

As Sewists, we don't always get it right. I believe that is the single most challenging aspect of making your own wardrobe - we may think a particular style will work, and we love the fabric we've chosen, but sometimes you have to throw in the towel.

Knowing When to Quit 

My seamstress and collaborator Laurel became "France focused" long before she left in September. For her, it was all about making some garments that would hold up for a three week drive trip. I was inspired by her search for easy garments, using fabrics that had a little stretch and remained fashion forward.  Together we learned that sometimes you can sew something and get exactly what you're looking for rather than purchase it in the department stores and settle for something less than perfect.

Buy It or Sew It
Easy Bias Skirt 

There's nothing like Spring to inspire change.  Stonemountain celebrated 33 years at our Shattuck location in 2014, and like all truly successful ventures, change and renewal is a normal part of doing business. Collaboration inspires each of us to be more than we were, to think bigger than the box we're in and to let our dreams rattle our minds to new levels. April was a time to let the Muses take over and inspire us to undergo a metamorphosis...new web design, a fresh new look at fabric and a more focused outlook on garment sewing. In short we inspired each other.  Magic!

New Social Media Looks
Working With Stripes
Great Bag!
Kiki Ramone
Photography

With Summer around the corner, isn't it funny that people start thinking "in color"? Years ago I had my colors "done" by a professional, and like many women I have kept that color palette of swatches ever since. Some people know instinctively what colors in fabrics will look and feel good, but some of us need a little help. I for one am semi stuck in the blacks and greys, but as Summer approached, my peeps urged me to step out of my comfort zone and try a few of those swatch colors I've been carrying around forever. Isn't that what friends are for?

Your Colors
Fabric Stash 

The Bay Area is a hodge-podge of coolish, foggy, mild, sunny, wet, etc. weather conditions all throughout the year, regardless of the season.  Generally the weather is the same - mild - but once in a while we'll even get a heat wave. Berkeley summers may require a jacket or sweater in the evening, but sleeveless tops are always a great option here...especially while working at the store.  I love a great tank and when you find a great pattern, the fabric choices are endless. 

Summer Tank
Plaids 

Summer is one of the best times for traveling. We thought that we'd focus on some easy travel garments.  Knits are a perfect "pack and go" fabric, not to mention the comfort of wearing them. Ponte knits are especially nice, as they have a little more weight and don't wrinkle as much. We had fun with this fabric, just knowing that there was a time when you wouldn't be caught dead in a "double knit".  But this timeless fabric was trending for the upcoming Fall season.

Ponte Knits
Selvage Edges
Easy Travel Skirt
Travel Pants 

A lot of our readers and customers are NOT expert Sewists.  They visit the store to find a great fabric and a simple pattern. Laurel (who is an accomplished seamstress) mentioned that she used to make a garment during the day just to wear that evening.  So naturally, we thought we'd test it with a pattern that boasted "Easy 1 hour" dress. (Note: "Note so much!") But there is something to be said for taking your time and adding detail to a simple pattern - don't we just love a simple t-shirt pattern?

One Hour Dress
Do-Over for a Pretty Knit

By September of 2014, we were in full fledged creativity and metamorphosis! Our planning/fitting days with Laurel took on a whole new vibe, with the help of staff members who wanted to jump in with their ideas.  We were on a roll with our Funky Fall looks - garments that our customers could see were hand created! We combined colors and textures, prints and solids and added some great details to each garment. Creativity abounded and we haven't stopped since.  More Magic!!

Lynn Mizono Dress
Funky Fall 

We had such fun planning garments for our "Funky Fall" wardrobe. We wanted to try pairing different fabrics together - Natalie made the cutest little peplum blouse, so naturally I loved it and wanted one for myself. Laurel was just coming home from her French vacation full of design ideas, but after being away from her sewing machine for so long, it took a while to get her back in the "Berkeley Groove". We worked with fitting issues this month and the ins and outs of making a muslin.

Sewing "Zen"
The Muslin 

I've been obsessed with dresses this Fall, for some reason.  There are so many dress Patterns out there and many of them look alike, so you have to add your own touches to make them "yours".  We thought since Sandra Betzina was coming to Stonemountain for an evening class that we would make up some of her patterns for the event. Many of our staff joined in by making up their favorite Sandra B. design.  The evening class was awesome! Love Sandra!

 "Frances" Dress from Green Bee 
Sandra Betzina 

We wrapped up the year in our "Little Black Dress". Because we worked so hard on the fitting  (using the muslin) it turned out to be a sweet little number that I will wear for a long time.

Little Black Dress
Bright Prints 

Coming Soon!!!

We are already knee deep into planning for 2015. Keep FabricLady on your list of must-read blogs so you don't miss all the exciting designs coming up!

Thank you for taking the time to read my blog on this day. Life is so much sweeter when it is shared.

Creatively Yours

Suzan

Suzan Steinberg, 4th Generation Fabric Lover
Stonemountain & Daughter Fabrics
2518 Shattuck Ave. @ Dwight Way
Berkeley CA 94704

510-845-6106

email: fabriclady3@gmail.com

Do Your homework - The muslin!

Marie Antoinette in her Muslin

Before cutting pieces from the final fabric, a dressmaker may test the fit of a garment, using an inexpensive muslin fabric, thereby avoiding potential costly mistakes. This garment is often called a "muslin," and the process is called making a muslin. In this context, the term, "muslin" has become the generic term for a test or fitting garment, regardless of what it's made from.

In previous posts, we have mentioned the importance of making a muslin, especially when you're using a pattern that you've not tried before.  No matter how much you sew or how many garments you have made, pattern designers all have their own concepts of how a particular garment should fit. Making a muslin is the only way to insure that your garment will fit you the way you want it to. Isn't that why we sew for ourselves, anyway?

Remember the pants we were going to make out of a lovely wool? The muslin proved that this pattern was not going to look good on my body, no matter how great it fit.

Our New Look 6013 dress is another perfect example of why it's important not to assume that your customary pattern size will have a good fit.  This pattern is a basic sheath dress with a raglan sleeve - it's meant to hug the body, so proper fitting is important.

Cutting out the muslin should be just as precise as the layout and cutting of the actual finished fabric - otherwise, proper fit could still be an issue.

Certain pattern pieces can be skipped in the muslin stage, as an option.  For instance, we did not make a muslin of the facing pieces.

Here is why we make muslins: this pattern is my normal size, but look how much extra fabric there is in the body of the dress...we are so glad that we took the time to do a muslin test - this could have been another fitting disaster!

Pinning and marking the muslin shows us where we will adjust the final pattern of the fabric. Me thinks Laurel looks a little stressed, but she assured me that this process is well worth spending time to ensure a good fit.

After the muslin fitting, we know exactly where we will be adjusting the pattern pieces. The final garment will fit like a glove, all because of the care we took in the initial stages.

I am super excited about this dress! Stay tuned to see how we funk it up a bit...

Creatively Yours,

Suzan
fabriclady3@gmail.com
Stonemountain & Daughter Fabrics
www.stonemountainfabric.com