The Classic Shirtwaist

If you've been sewing for a while, you may start noticing that though fashion and styles change every year, if you hang around long enough, you begin to see them reappearing. Designers change up little details and fabrics to make a dress or pattern their own, but there are only a limited number of ways to dress a body. Case in point: the classic shirtwaist dress has been around since the 1940's, and perhaps even earlier.

Classic Shirtwaist dress from the 50's

The big four pattern companies have had a hundred renditions of this dress style over the years, including wasp waists (whomever had one of those!), short sleeves, cuffed sleeves cinched belts, pleats, circle skirts, etc.  For as many  ways we have seen shirtwaist dresses, one thing is clear: the ease and comfort of the "day dress" idea of the 40's and 50's has not diminished. And for today's independent pattern designers, they have not missed creating their own versions of this dress.

The Reeta Dress

The Penny Dress

View A of Pauline and Alice's Cami Dress is the classic shirtwaist dress times ten. It features a classic shirt collar - that means it's fashioned after a Man's shirt, complete with a collar stand.  It also has a fitted bodice to show off your wasp waist (yeah right - more about that in a minute!), button front and a side zipper.

As I mentioned before, the pattern drawings of the 40's and 50's patterns detailed what looked like a 15" waist, leaving sewists sorely disappointed after their own dress had a more natural sized waist. Our Indie designers do a much better job with cover drawings (and photos), but even then, your final dress may not measure up to the image in your head.  This is precisely why my collaboration with my sewist Laurel exists - to make up our Indie patterns and show you how they look on a real person! The new Stonemountain sewists also contribute to body image awareness and acceptance, by featuring their makes on our website.

So back to Pauline and Alices Cami dress - I chose to make the fitted version out of a pretty small print rayon, cutting the size 40 (finished bust is 39").

The shirt dress has a few details that may a little more challenging for the beginning Sewist, but it is by no means difficult.  The trick to sewing a stand collar is use a lot of pins.  You can also baste it in place, if it helps keep everything in place. When a pattern calls for interfacing, don't omit it - there;'s a reason why and a shirt collar is almost always interfaced, to help it hold it's shape.

The cuffs on the Cami dress threw Laurel a bit, as she hadn't seen that application.  The directions are clear, and if you follow them exactly, they will turn out as designed.

The only missing instruction was how far to turn them up against the sleeve.  We just guessed.

Going to be so cute!

The skirt is gathered and has in-seam pockets. One trick when gathering a skirt, is to sew the deepest  gathering thread a little deeper than the 5/8" seam allowance. (Remember to always use two rows of thread for gathering).  When you sew the bodice to the gathered skirt, sew between the two rows of gathering threads - this way your gathers can remain even. Laurel finishes off the waist by surging the skirt and bodice edges together.

Just a side zipper, button holes and a hem stand in the way of this adorable shirt waist dress! Did we mention that we did add 3'" to the length of the skirt - I like a longer look. I'm thinking a belt too.

Zanikan likes it too!

Just a couple of finishing details: Hemming! Although a machine hem is the norm these days, why not try a hand sewn hem for a more professional look. In the end, it really depends on your fabric as to which you chose.

That being said, side by side, the results are similar with a narrow hem on a print fabric. The hand sewn hem is on the right - but they both look fine!

And lastly, if you haven't read it already, use a seam ripper to cut your buttonholes!

Wishing you warmth, creativity, and love in this Spring!

Suzan

follow me on Instagram @fabriclady3

email me at fabriclady3@gmail.com or email my store with any questions at info@stonemountainfabric.com

Stonemountain & Daughter Fabrics in Berkeley

since 1981

www.stonemountainfabric.com (full service brick and mortar and online pageant of fine fabrics, patterns, and notions)

2518 Shattuck Ave.

Berkeley, CA 94704