FabricLady: February 2019

With so many people sewing garments again, it should be no surprise that sewing jeans is a big success! There is no other article of clothing that is more ubiquitous in closets around the world than jeans. And for that, we probably should give a shout out to the masters and creators of this wardrobe staple, Jacob Davis and Levi Strauss who made the term "jeans" a household word.

Originally made for workwear, jeans have evolved from the rugged denim pants of years ago to high fashion wardrobe necessities. Much clever marketing has highlighted the changes in jeans over the years and even a few spoofs...

Who can forget SNL's "Mom Jeans"?

Today, we have jeans that are "not your daughter's", ripped, faded, low rise, high rise, button fly, skinny, stretch, pull-on, etc. etc. We wear them everywhere, we cut them off, we stitch and patch them, and basically wear them until they are in shreds. Jeans are the perfect layer for comfort, fit, style, and all the activities that feed our soul.

And now, yes, we make them ourselves! It used to be rather a badge of honor among sewists—"I made my jeans!"—particularly because it was thought that all those pockets, fly openings, and top stitching were somehow too difficult to manage. But as indie pattern designers began jumping on the jeans bandwagon, more sewists (young and old) gathered the courage to at least attempt to make a pair of jeans. And therein lies the secret—you actually have to sew a pair to really appreciate that when taken step by step, jeans are not that difficult and certainly a lot of fun to sew!

Three things make sewing your own jeans a true joy:

The sheer variety of patterns to choose from
All the fabulous fabrics available (jeans don't have to be made from denim!)
Topstitching!

There is also so much help available—from sewing tools to community support. Pick up a kit with everything you need, then go check out the Instagram hashtag #nofearnewjeans for inspiration, and you're ready to tackle sewing jeans!

What pattern to pick?

The first thing to do when picking a jeans pattern is considering the fit. How do you wear your jeans? Do you like a relaxed, boyfriend style like the Morgan Jeans from Closet Case Files or a slim line like the Safran Pants from Deer and Doe? One of the most popular jeans patterns, the Ginger Jeans by Closet Case Patterns, has a classic fit with a number of options that suit nearly every wardrobe and style (including mine!). And if you like to switch it up, patterns like the Dawn and Ash Jeans by Megan Nielsen give you enough options to make different jeans for every day of the week!

From Closet Case: Morgan and Ginger Jeans

From Deer and Doe Patterns: Safran Pants

From Jalie: Eleonore Pull-on Jeans

From Megan Nielsen Patterns: Dawn and Ash Jeans

From Cashmerette Patterns: Ames Jeans

From Papercut Patterns: Otsu Jeans

With so many patterns to choose from, it can be hard to know where to start! We're always happy to help with choosing patterns and fabric—just stop by the store or shoot us an email at info@stonemountainfabric.com.

All about the fabric

When it comes to jeans, denim is obviously the star of the show. If you're making stretch jeans like the Ginger or Ash patterns, look for denim with spandex or lycra and 15-20% stretch.

A common misconception about stretch denim is that the spandex content determines the amount of stretch, but that isn't necessarily true! Our Robert Kaufman Super Stretch Denim 8.6oz - Indigo actually doesn't have spandex, yet it has 20% stretch and excellent recovery. And though the Cone Mills stretch denims shown below both have 1% spandex, the 11oz has 15% stretch and the 12oz has 10% stretch.

Cone Mills - 12oz Stretch Denim - Dark Indigo

Cone Mills - 11oz Stretch Denim - Indigo

If you're making a rigid jean like the Morgan or Dawn patterns, look for 100% cotton and pay attention to the weight. 10oz is a good medium weight that will make comfortable, everyday jeans while a heavier weight like 14oz will make more rugged and stiffer jeans.

And remember—denim is only the starting point! When you make your own jeans they can be made out of practically anything. Laurel made a pair of Morgan Jeans out of a printed cotton/linen blend and they turned out amazing!

Topstitching is like icing on the cake

All jeans, whether RTW or handmade, feature at least some topstitching. You can go the subtle route and pick topstitching thread to match your fabric, or go all out with some neon thread! Choosing the right thread for your jeans is what makes them unique to you.

My Safran Jeans with a pop of pink to highlight those cool pockets.

Liz's neon pink-accented Ginger Jeans

Our favorite thread for topstitching is Mara 70—it's lighter than Mara 30 so it's easier to sew with on home machines, but it has enough weight to stand out.

Our rainbow of Mara 70 top stitching thread

Mara 70 thread in Rust on Catherine's non-stretch jeans

Jump on the jeans making bandwagon!

There's something so powerful about wearing jeans that are made just for you. No more fitting room struggles or paying hundreds of dollars for jeans that don't fit quite right.