Taking the Nightmare Out of Making Pants

We all want a pair of pants that fit right. We want a pair with:

• just the right amount of "room" in the seat - not too tight, not too baggy
• just the right amount of ease in the legs for our figure type
• just the right length - not too high water, but fashionably toying with our ankles

There is probably an answer to getting the perfect fit on a pair of pants that takes the trial and error out of the mix, but I'm not sure we know it. There are dressmakers and designers who are experts at pattern making.  There are classes that you take to learn the fine points of fitting a pattern.

But sometimes the simplest ideas work too: Make a muslin first! Maybe because Laurel can't hop over here to the store everyday, she chose to make a trial pair of pants out of cotton muslin to check the fit on my ever-changing body before cutting into the fabric that I chose. Smart girl!

After a few adjustments at the waist and hips, she was able to disassemble the muslin and use it for a pattern.  The beauty of this process is that now I have a pattern that I can use over and over again any time I need a new pair of slacks.

I chose the Debussy denim which has 62% linen, 35% cotton and 3% Spandex (don't you just love a little Spandex in your fabrics?). This fabric is remarkably soft for a "denim" like fabric and the small amount of Spandex makes it perfect for pants. I chose New Look #6163.

Another element of sewing pants that some find a little daunting is the dreaded zipper. I love these Beulon Knittted Tape zippers.  

The trick to putting in a zipper? Baste it in FIRST.  I love Laurel's trick of using a contrasting basting thread - she runs her basting thread right along the edge of the zipper teeth and then sews it on the right side of the garment so she can see how close she is to the edge AND keep the placket straight at the same time.

We all want to finish garments quickly so we can wear them right away and today's sewing machines are feature-rich on time saving settings and stitches.  But just because your machine CAN make an hemline stitch doesn't always mean you should use it. A case in point: this denim fabric did not do well with a machine hem.

Check out how it pulled on the weave: 

Solution - do a sample of your stitch first. If it doesn't look right, then don't be in such a rush that you forget the value of hand sewing. All those ladies in the 1800's couldn't have been that wrong! Look at the hemline on my slacks - beautiful!!!!

And the finished product?? Love these pants!  I sent Laurel home with some awesome Nevada Linen/Flax to make another pair! You can read more about my adventure's on Laurel's blog at Laurel's Quill!

All this visioning for a new wardrobe has me hungry for healthy food. It's amazing what having your measurements can do for motivating me in treating myself to a month + of all Whole9 Nutrition!

Here is what I made over the weekend for breakfast! Yummy organic eggs with organic vegetables and leftover grilled salmon from the night before. Put a little avocado on top and we are set!  Plus here's a peak into my refrigerator - it's so inspiring to just see veggies (the protein is in a drawer).

Cheers!

SuZan

a.k.a. Daughter

p.s. I just want to say how inspired I am by those of you joining me in eating well. I am on day 25 and loving it. I have never felt better and I have no more joint pain and my weight and measurements are going places that I haven't been in years! Gee I sure hope these pants will still fit! I love reading your comments and letters about how you are trying the Paleo, Whole9 Nutrition Reset too! What more is possible for us all?

I love wearing knits! The sewing adventure continues...

Wow is it HOT here in the Bay Area! This is the time when I love to wear knit fabrics.  In spite of the comfort factor of wearing a rayon knit garment, a lot of home seamstresses are intimidated with sewing on a knit. Because there is "stretchiness" to the material itself, people worry about seams that won’t drape properly and edges that may roll, and ultimately, what it will look like when it comes out of the dryer.

Actually, knit fabrics are very forgiving – you need not be an expert to sew an attractive knit garment. We chose a simple knit skirt with a side slit to demonstrate a few tips and tricks for sewing knits.  The pattern we used is KWIK SEW #3139.

This long skirt has an elastic waist and a hemline slit on one side. We chose a pretty blue rayon knit fabric. One of the secrets of working with rayon knits is to pre-wash and dry your fabric.  This process not only pre-shrinks the fabric but also allows you to lay the pattern out on the straight grain of the fabric. Just remember not to use too hot of a dryer as the lycra can melt and the fabric will hold up better.

We serged our side edges prior to sewing the seams, rather than serge the seams together, but either method is fine.  If your machine has a pre-set knit stitch, that’s great, but even a narrow zigzag stitch works just as well. The important thing to remember is that knit fabrics s-t-r-e-t-c-h and so should your seams.

We also reinforced the top end of the slit with a small triangle of bias tape – there’s nothing worse than watching your side or back hemline slit start giving way during a brisk Salsa at the club.

We machine hemmed our skirt with two rows of stitching to add a little detail.

Put a little t-shirt with this long skirt and Voila! you have great look for shopping, dinner, whatever! Try making it in other knits too, such as a luxurious ponte knit for a dressier version. Whichever knit fabric you choose and depending on your skill level, you can polish this skirt off in an afternoon.

Casual rayon jersey knit 

Dressy Ponte knit - 90% Polyester, 5% Rayon and 5% Spandex

Don't believe us? You can make this EXACT skirt in Stonemoutain's Sewing on Knit Fabric - Knit Know How Project class. Its only 3 hours and you can leave with your own finished beauty.

We have more goodies coming up next week. Keep sewing!

Vogue 8636 by Marcy Tilton

Here's my finished outfit - it went straight to the mannequin for display! I need to take this home so I can wear it next week!  This is so much fun having Laurel sew these amazing garments. We are both blogging about it and getting so motivated by each other. What more is possible? I hope that you are inspired by watching this process. We would love to hear from you.

Blessings, Suzan

P.S. Uh oh, Laurel. I think I lost another inch or so in my hips and waist from my whole9 nutrition 30 day reset - I am on day 18 and this is amazing! So much energy and it's great to watch my problem belly shrink before my eyes. Wow I didn't think this was possible, but it truly all Starts with Food!

BEST TOP EVER: A Radical Combination

In a recent newsletter and blog post, we highlighted an exciting new fashion trend - mixing woven fabrics with knits.  This combination offers a lot of versatility given the unlimited variety of fabric choices. You can make a dressy garment or keep it casual.

I absolutely adore this wonderful stretch silk charmeuse and chose it for my radical combination.  (Although I got the last of this bolt, there are so many other choices at Stonemountain) I paired it with a soft black knit for the back of Sandra Betzina's sleeveless top - Vogue#1355. 

Vogue #V1355

Sandra Betzina is one of my favorite designers and one of our instructors.  I love the simplicity of her designs, yet each has stylistic elements that make her looks unique and fashion forward.






My dressmaker Laurel (Laurel's Quill) and I decided that we would cut the front of the top on the bias to give us more layout options so we can play up the print design.  The material has a bit of lycra in it so it has even more give on the bias.  We decided the black areas would look best against my neckline and face.

Sandra's pattern calls for a full lining out of a lightweight fabric such as lingerie knit or stretchy mesh, but because we were combining the charmeuse with a knitted back, Laurel suggested just constructing a facing to keep the top light and flowing.

I love the way it turned out!! I think it's a keeper! What do you think?

For Sandra's coordinating pants, I chose a soft bamboo/rayon with lycra knit.  This fabric is dreamy. The waist band uses the principle of "negative ease" to holds the pants up and has no elastic, so proper fit is important.  Sandra mentions in her pattern notes that her daughters loved these drapey pants as "upscale" yoga pants. What a great idea!

One small snag... my new healthy lifestyle (Whole9 Nutrition) has already yielded a one inch (Yay!!) drop in my waistline.  Sorry Laurel - can we take them in a hair in the waist?  I will have a photo taken of the whole outfit when I get those pants back!  I am super excited to share how the other clothes are turning out... stay tuned!!!

Happy Sewing, Suzan Steinberg

It's Time to Sew!

If you didn't already know this about me, let me tell you: I Love Fabric! 

Some of my fondest childhood memories were of wearing the wonderful "hippie" creations that my dad sewed up for me with fabric from his fabric store in the late 60's. My favorites were the mini dresses of African printed cotton with bell bottom sleeves! Fast forward now to my 50's, where my love of fabric drives my passion for the store that my father and I work so hard to preserve. Sometimes, I just want to bring all the fabric home with me! Like many women, I know how to sew but it is not a priority for me right now. So, my favorite alternative option is to have others (more talented than I!) sew for me.



About a month ago I put a call out for seamstresses in our community to sew a new fashion wardrobe for me. After sorting through the responses, I immediately knew that Laurel (of Laurel's Quill) and I were a match made in heaven!

Laurel's blog and photos truly inspire - take a look for more details from her perspective!

We quickly began planning to create a shared vision of partnering beautiful fabric and patterns to make clothes that will encourage and spark YOUR creativity.

These garments will be on display in the store on the days when I am not wearing them. We will share the photos, patterns, notions and sewing tips that really work and those that don't work so well. Please feel free to travel between our two blogs for the complete story!

Sandra Betzina Top in printed stretch silk and black bamboo/rayon knit,  Vogue 1355; Knit skirt in teal rayon interlock,  Kwik Sew 3139; Pants in cotton/linen/spandex denim, New Look 6163

Join me on this journey of making a new and updated wardrobe out of our amazing fabrics here at Stonemountain & Daughter Fabrics.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Wow, Laurel and I just met for our third fitting and I have lost an inch in my waist and hips! Now this should make our task fun and challenging! I started the Whole9 Nutrition 12 days ago to get super healthy and fit. I feel wonderful JUST eating vegetables, fruit and protein - as organic as I can find.

I am also consciously sending this blog out at on the Summer Solstice at 0 degree Cancer. This is a powerful time to set our intentions and to nourish our dreams. This all ties together my passion for cosmology, being a fabric merchant and a certified Shamanic Astrologer!

I hope you will join me and write comments as we deepen our connection to our soul work and build community.

Love in ALL things,

SuZan

Sometimes you just got to get back to basics.

            Summer is a great time to slow down, enjoy yourself, and sew.  Let's make it easy. 

And just cause it's easy doesn't mean it won't be unique, expressive and creative! Here are a few easy essentials to brighten your days. 

           

        New Classes for Summer are up on our Website

           

           

     What a cute and simple sundress!

           

Easy to make, easy to wear - great for a no hassle lifestyle.

           

What a relief for those of us with jam packed schedules.

           

Put this dress on and let everything go.

           

           

           

           

           

 Pattern - Vogue 8723 - Misses' Dress

           

        

This lined dress has pockets and a back zipper.

           

           

Great in cotton, cotton shirting, linen, and gingham.

            TIP

            Use a fabric with a border or add a separate fabric in a contrasting color to get the look in the Vogue dress above.

           

            African and Indian style cotton prints and a  butterfly print

            These prints would be bold to try.

            For beginners, we recommend stable cottons (like the butterfly print above!)

            and linen wovens.

 

            TIP

            Worried about matching prints on your seams?

            Fold under your seam allowances and cut your second piece to match the with seam allowances folded out of the way.

            Don't forget to make a muslin for fit first!

            See it step by step in this great tutorial from Sewaholic on our Pinterest

           

Here is an easy pattern to cut your teeth on if you are a beginner or make up a bunch for you or as gifts for the experienced seamster.   

           

PJ sewing party anyone?!

           

                       Tofino Pants are cosy, casual pyjama pants for lounging at home.  

           

   

           

Pattern - Sewaholic Tofino Pants  

           

Sewaholic named these pants for the Tofino district on Vancouver Island that's known for its beaches, surfing, whale watching, and beautiful resorts. Now there's something to dream about!  

           

The rise of these pants is cut higher in the back and lower in the front so it's  more comfortable for sitting.  Piping and vertical seaming down the sides elongates the leg and adds a  bright touch of color. You can make these as long pants or knee length shorts.

           

 

           

Beginners you  may want to skip the piping on your first pair to make them even easier  to sew. So cosy, you'll reach for them the minute you get home! The key is to pick a fabric that feels soft enough to sleep in! 

           

   

           

 Cotton Flannels 

           

                       This pattern works well in lightweight cottons, rayons, or even knit  fabrics. Use our cotton flannel for a cosy winter set of PJs! 

           

   

           

Mediumweight light blue floral linen 

           

         Navy floral silk charmeuse print                        

           

Use silk or linen for a dressier set of casual pants or mediumweight silk for luxurious PJs. 

           

Get started with classes at Stonemountain!       

           

Class #30 - Crash Course

            This is our most basic class! We supply the machines and our instructors will teach you what you need to get started!

        

           

 Class #35 - Easy Intro - Pillow Case, Purse or Apron

            Learn to use the machine and make your first project.

           

Class #250 - Sew Labs for those with a bit of machine experience and ready to sew!

           

           

           

Need pricing on anything you've seen in this newsletter? We are a short click away and are happy to answer any of your product questions!

           

           

Radical Combination of Knits & Wovens!

Innovating with Knits and Wovens gives you that designer edge and look!

Isn't life great? Top designers are combining flowing wovens with drapey knits! You can too! Sewing your own clothes allows the freedom of design and expression. This is really exemplified here!
All fabrics and patterns mentioned are available on our website!

          

          

Black rayon lycra knit and striped rayon woven

          

Knits give a flattering fit and still leave plenty of breathing space.

          

Wovens are flouncy and flowing. But we often use them in separate garments. In this newsletter, we tackle the challenges of combining these two terrific textiles into one delightful garment.
We want to make it worth your time to sew - go ahead - pick style, fit, fabrics, colors, textures, to combine in ways that are unique and couldn't find in any store! You really do get to have it all! 

        

Look for patterns with distinct elements. For example, a dress that acts as a combination of  separate elements - here as a skirt with a top. This Kwik Sew pattern has a  wide waistband between the bodice and skirt, which makes it ideal.

        

          

Pattern - Kwik Sew 3758 - Dresses

          

The bodice is designed for stretch knits and the gathered skirt would work well with a woven. The wide elastic band at the waist will hold and tame any wavy seams.

        

        

This green and black chevron stretch silk
44" wide stretch silk charmeuse with shades of olive green, black  chevron pattern against a natural white background. 14" repeat, chevrons  run with selvedge)

          

pairs wells with

          

a black lightweight knit  -
a Modal Rayon/Spandex blend jersey knit in black.  94% Modal, 6% Spandex.  Dry clean recommended. Modal is a type of rayon, a semi-synthetic  cellulose fiber made by spinning reconstituted cellulose, in this case  often from beech trees.

        

        

        

So we've taken the guesswork out of the process for you!

        

Simply order online or look for the pink stars on the bolts and you will know what to pair together!

        

      

        

Try a stretchy knit at the tummy for support and comfort!

        

        

Pattern - Kwik Sew 3242 - Misses' Skirts & Top

        

You can really see how this would work in the next pics.

        

Use a knit for the waist yoke. This allows for comfort and body changes. For more support, you can make the yoke taller and fold it over like yoga pants. If you are looking to expand a maternity wardrobe, you could make the  waist band in two different sizes and swap it out for the larger size as  your pregnancy progresses A long shirt can cover the band for ease. From the pictures below, you can really start to imagine how this pattern can be used to combine knits and wovens.

        

This pattern also includes a tank top. You can make the front in a silk or rayon and the back panel in a knit! This technique will also work on most sleeveless shirt patterns (avoid sleeves for this type of technique) You have the best of both worlds - ease and stretch  in the back and style and a very flattering fabric in the front.

Remember - this pattern is designed for knits - it has no darts it and will sew up too tight in a woven. It's important to make a test garment when replacing patterns made for knit with a woven portion since a pattern designed for knits relies on on the give of a knit when they are graded and will not fit the same in a woven fabric. Don't be afraid to play and experiment!

        

Beginners will be happiest with cotton wovens, but use a solid kona cotton on the back and a fun cotton woven print on the front!

        

Just because you are a beginner doesn't mean you lose out on the fun: Change things up - try variety!

      

        

Here are a few other shirt patterns that can be tried with this technique. This easy tank from New Look is a winner. The darts at the front work well for rayon or silk, while the back is good for knit. Now here is where your fabric pairing pays off : you get to skip the back zipper and make the back into one piece instead of two! Bonus! And you haven't even started to wear it!
Pattern - New Look - 6483 - Tank
The drapeyness of this shirt is great for the rayon or silk front.
The tucks are great in the rayon and the back can be a plain knit.

Pattern - New Look - 6102 - Top, Dress, Scarf
Look at your pattern stash - there are other patterns that work well for this technique that we have discussed in previous newsletters - For example - you can breath new life into your Titus patterns!

Pattern - Titus - Spring Cami

      

          

            

Tips and Quips  

            

              

                

The different stretch of knits and wovens affects the way the joining seam acts. It may be wavy or  pucker.

                

Test, Test, Test!  

            

Sew swatches of each fabric together to see how they act when sewn and washed.

Look for stable knits with minimal stretch.  

            

Avoid structured garments.

Stay with design and fitting elements that work with each fabric, for example darts work best with wovens and are generally better avoided with knits.

Choose fabrics of the same weight. If the woven is heavier than the knit, it will pull it out of shape.

Try a T-shirt top with a woven skirts - puckering at waistline can be covered up with elastic. 

Avoid combining wovens and knits around difficult to fit areas such as the bust and arrmsyche. The negative ease of the knit can be  difficult to combine with the regular ease of the woven, creating a fitting issue. The result is that the woven can "hold" the knit away from the body, making the underarm and bust fit incorrectly.  

            

      

        

This is a nice pattern for combining knits and wovens for comfort and wearability. The easy fit in the jumper lets you confidently combine these two very different types of fabric. The modern lines make it ideal for a unique design. Try alternating colors  or mixing a graphic pattern with a solid. Get creative!

        

          

            

Pattern - Kwik Sew 3955 - Misses' Jumper

            

The center back panel piece is a great place to add in your knit fabric  for movement, comfort, and ease. This allows you to use non-stretchy wovens in front without sacrificing fit or structure.

          

          

      

        

          

Look for stable knits with minimal stretch

          

Ponte is a good knit to try for its stability. You will have to use it with a heavier cotton or a linen.

            

            

      

        

Stonemountain & Daughter sewing instructor Barbara Beccio recommends sewing in a twill tape to stabilize the knit as you would in a bias cut dress. For a delicate knit, you can also try sewing in silk organza to stabilize the seam.

        

 You can stabilize and baste the tape inside the stitch line - so Barbara recommends using a 1/8" inch strip.

      

     

        

Another method suggested by our own customer service representative, Gerri --- is to cut your woven on the bias and to match the stretch of the bias woven to the stretch of the knit.

        

    

        

Have you ever put a knit and woven together in a garment sucessfully?

        

Let us know your results! Email us or share on Facebook.

      

        

Need pricing on anything you've seen in this newsletter? We are a short click away and are happy to answer any of your product questions!