Calling all Quilters!

        

Why not make a flower quilt?! It is springtime and flowers are coming up in abundance! Come celebrate spring at Stonemountain & Daughter and run your fingers through our flowery cotton prints.

        

        

      

Flowery cotton fabric    

  

        

Here is a beautiful flower quilt to try -

        

Postage Stamp Posies from Needlings patterns.

        

Quilt pattern - Postage Stamp Posies - Needlings
This is a variation on an Irish Chain quilt. It is also known as a "Postage Stamp" quilt as the squares are about the size of a postage stamp  - 1 1/4". Frugal housewives in the past didn't want to waste even an inch of fabric and put it to good use in a quilt like this. This quilt sounds intimidating but it is not.. all the units are constructed in strip sets which makes the cutting and sewing much easier.. Use any combination of fat quarters or scraps to make this quilt your own personal statement!
This quilt can be made as a Wall Hanging (41" x 41") a Twin (61" x 81") a Full ( 81" x 90") or a Queen (101" x 101")

      

          

Quilters love fat quarters and Stonemountain & Daughter has a great selection of pre-cut fat quarters!
Never has it been easier to stitch up some fun!

          

Tips and Quips

          What is a "Fat Quarter"?

A fat quarter is a quarter yard of fabric, cut as a smaller rectangle instead of a long strip (essentially a half yard of fabric cut in half - usually measuring 18" x 22") and is there for useful for many small projects. Stonemountain does not cut fat quarters off the bolt, instead we carry a diverse selection of pre-cut fat quarters.

          

Pattern - 5 & Dime Quilt by All Washed Up Quilts
This pattern is made just for fat quarters
It is called 5 & dime - because it takes about 5 minutes to shop and about 10 minutes to cut out the entire top! This is an ideal pattern for beginners and experienced quilters in a hurry (think birthday gifts and holidays!) Choose a bundle of fat quarters and a focus fabric and you are ready to have fun!
This quilt can be made in three sizes: Lap or Child (44" x 62"), Throw (67" x 93") or Queen (85" x 93")

          How do I make my own fat quarter?

To make your own fat quarter lay out a half yard of fabric. Cut the fabric in half on the fold - voila, now you have two fat quarters. You can keep one and give one to a quilting friend! A great way to develop your stash!

          

Fat Quarters - $3.50 each

          What can I do with a fat quarter?

Quilters have always loved them - but if you are not a quilter, don't let that limit you! Check out this great article on our How to Quilt Pinterest board - 25 Things To Do With Fat Quarters.. this article links over to 25 free tutorials for making everything from notebook and checkbook covers, to baby bibs and a diaper carrier, to a iphone case and a snazzy camera strap...there is even a cute little owl!

          

A sampling of Stonemountain & Daughter's Fat Quarters!

      

Here is another cute flower quilt to try from Cleo's Designs..

        

          

Pattern - Cleo's Designs - Hollyhocks

          This quilt is 42" x 49"

                

        

Inspired? - Learn to Quilt!

      

        

May Quilting Classes

        

         Mix and Match with Mary Hall Patron

          

Beginning Quilting - Paper Piecing With Ann Tarabini

          

        

Log Cabin Crazy Quilt Block With Ann Tarabini

      

    

          

Stonemountain has an array of various quilting notions for the fine quilter...We have everything from quilting gloves to sewing gauges and templates to glow-line tape - in our upcoming newsletters we will explain what some of these unique and nifty notions do!

          

        

Below are the wide selection of quilting rulers and guides you will find...Quilting is all about the joys of measuring!  

        

          

        

    Happy Quilting and wishes for continued creativity and joy!

  

Flowery Spring Wardrobe at Stonemountain

     Make something just for you this Spring!

           

             Spring is here - but showers are still around the bend!

            Why not make this cute raincoat to brave the spring rains?

            A brand new pattern from Sewaholic - what a delight!

           

            Sewaholic - Pattern 1301 - Robson Coat

            Every woman looks amazing in a classic trench coat! This is a feminine   take on the traditional military trench, with rounded edges for a   softer look.

           

            Pattern - Sewaholic -1301 - Robson Coat

           

The Robson Coat features everything you'd hope for on a trench coat,  including front and back storm flaps, epaulettes, topstitching, tie belt  and sleeve tabs. It's unlined to make it easier to sew, as well as  easier to press the finished coat. Front pockets are covered with welts  and lie flat against the body. All of the inner seams are bound with  bias tape for a clean finish.

           

A beautiful, classic coat you'll wear and love for years!

           

      

Flowery fabrics are "in" this year!

            But really are they ever not??

           

           

Floral Silk Chiffon  

            The  nice thing though we've noticed, is the combining of different flowery  fabrics together - for a bouquet of style! Here are a few cute patterns  for flowery fabrics! 

            Here is the cute Cambie dress in a fresh floral pattern.

           

           

           

Pattern - Sewaholic 1202 - Cambie Dress

            This dress can be made in a classic A-line skirt or full gathered skirt.

           

The slimmer silhouette is shown above.

           

           

This floral polyester is reversible - roses on one side and a field of tiny flowers on the other!

            How fun is that to have a flirty splash of color.

           

           

The Pendrell blouse is a feminine semi-fitted top. Your choice of   unique draped sleeves, flirty double ruffles or a classic sleeveless   shell. A great addition to your wardrobe!

           

            Sewaholic - Pattern 1001 - Pendrell Blouse

            A fun, pretty way to dress up your basic skirts and trousers!

           

Sewaholic recommends chiffon, georgette, charmeuse, challis, crepe de chine, lightweight crepe, and lightweight jersey knits.  

           

   

           

Stonemountain & Daughter Floral Chiffons 

            For a detail with a lot of class, you can choose to use  chiffon for flowy details at the sleeves. Ruffles or  sleeves add  dimension at the shoulders, which balances out wider hips  so they  appear slim in comparison!

           

Tips and Quips 

           

If you decide to use our floral chiffons for the blouse bodice, you will need to line the blouse or wear very pretty lingerie!

            Consider making a cami to layer in a different floral.    

           

    

           

Pattern - Titus - Spring Camisole 

           

This easy to make cami pattern by Titus Patterns could be just what you need to layer!  

           

           

Brighten up your wardrobe with a pretty new blouse! The Alma Blouse  is a  feminine, semi-fitted blouse with neckline and sleeve variations.   Darts create a fitted silhouette without being too tight, with an   optional tie belt to cinch the waistline. The Alma Blouse closes at the   side with an invisible zipper.

           

           

           

Pattern - Sewaholic 1204 - Alma Blouse

           

           

All of the sleeve and neckline options work together to create nine  different blouses from a single pattern! Your choice of cute cap  sleeves, elbow-length sleeves or long sleeves with cuffs. For the  neckline, choose from a simple rounded neckline, a contrast Peter Pan  collar, or a notched neckline to frame your face. Perfect for work, equally pretty for a night out!

           

We recommend our pretty floral print rayons for this blouse!

           

 

           

Stonemountain & Daughter Rayons         

           

Other recommended fabrics available at Stonemountain are: Lightweight woven fabrics such as cotton voile or lawn,  rayon challis, shirting fabrics, seersucker, and cotton blends. Allow extra  fabric to match plaids or stripes.  

           

Stonemountain & Daughter  

           

Quilt Inspirations

           

            Why not make a floral quilt?

           

            Quilt Pattern - Valori Wells - Gracie

            Simple shapes and fun fabrics make "Gracie" an easy-to-stitch quilt. Two  different arrangements of color and pattern make this a very versatile  project. In the larger block sections there is a  theme print, stripe and solids. In the smaller block rows the  monochromatic prints and stripes were used.

            This quilt is 66" x 78"

           

            Our floral retro print fabrics are precious!

           

April 22 is Earth Day!

           

            There are events throughout the Bay Area!

            Come to Berkeley, celebrate, and see our organic cottons in both wovens and knits!

           

           

Organic Cotton Wovens

           

            Organic Cotton Knits

Wishing you peace, love and prosperity

           

           

       

   

Sleeves or Sleeveless at Stonemountain

          

 Here are more sleeve options to get you excited and sewing! Here is a kimono sleeve we had to share from Chado Ralph Ricci! Wow! So bold in red!

Pattern - Vogue 1347 - Misses' Shirt and Pants - Chado Ralph Ricci

This very loose-fitting shirt has bands at collar, front, back and  sleeve. The front and back bands extend into tie ends at the sleeve cuff. No shoulder seams as the jacket is a kimono sleeve which means the sleeves are a part of the bodice.

Recommended Fabrics: Linen, Silk Dupioni, Jersey.

Lining: China Silk.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~        

Know your sleeves:
 Butterfly - a sleeve that gets wider towards the end of the sleeve and has a fluttery butterfly effect.
Bishop - This long sleeve is full at the wrist and gathered into a cuff.

Pattern - Decades of Style - 1930's Butterfly Blouse
Puffed - a short or long sleeve that puffs at shoulder.
Poet - a long sleeve that flares from elbow to wrist and may have ruffles at cuff.
Pagoda - a wide sleeve worn over a false sleeve in the 1800's.
Tips and Quips
Engageante - is the name of the false sleeve worn under the pagoda.
Before becoming false sleeves, this term referred to ruffles or flounces of linen, cotton, or lace tacked to the end of sleeves. Historically, as garment making was laborious and expensive, women often updated garment details such as sleeves and presumably the engageante to style and fashion.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~        

      

This cute pattern from Marcy Tilton is a stunner. It can be made with or without sleeves for three very different looks. Let's check them out!

        

        

Pattern - Vogue 8876 - Misses' Dress - Marcy Tilton
Here is the sleeveless option - cute and casual.

        

Nice for a picnic in the park or weekend wear.

        

        

Pattern - Vogue 8876 - Misses' Dress - Marcy Tilton

        

Here is the same pattern with a cap sleeves and a different fabric for a more polished look. This would be a nice dress for casual office attire. Below is the same dress pattern with three-quarter length sleeves and a dark fabric.

Tips and QuipsA quarter sleeve reaches midway between the shoulder and the elbow. A three quarter length sleeve is midway between the wrist and the elbow.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~        

 This pattern seems better suited for fall than the dresses above. You can make the ties contrast for a sportier look or match for a more elegant look. If the ties below were black, this dress would be a good evening out dress.

        

        

Pattern - Vogue 8876 - Misses' Dress - Marcy Tilton

        DRESS:  Loose-fitting dress has collar with casing, yokes (self-lined back, cut  on crosswise grain), princess seams, side pockets, back pleat, and hem  band. Options of self-lined cap sleeves, stitched hem on sleeves, or front zipper. Purchased drawstring for collar.

        

Recommended Fabrics: Linen, Broadcloth, Gauze.

      

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Follow us on Pinterest!
A great new place to share customer projects, staff picks, and the latest trunk shows in the store!

 

 Go to our Pinterest page - All About Sleeves
to see how to remodel a long sleeve into a short sleeve with a bonus tie at the collar! So cute! Also our Make Your Own Fashion board has lots of fashion project ideas and tips to try out!

Also check out how to make petal sleeves on our all about sleeves board - what a great tutorial!
Want help? Learn how to alter an existing pattern like this in our class # 250 - Sew and Fit Labs!

Super cute!

      

    

  

Make it or Break it Sleeves at Stonemountain & Daughter Fabrics

Sleeves can make or break a look. Let's take a look at a couple of patterns 

where the sleeves really put it all together.
This New England Dress Pattern from Decades of Style is adorable
and wouldn't be the same without sleeves.

Pattern - Decades of Style - New England Dress

      

    

        

This vogue pattern has modernized dolman sleeves. Defining sleeve types can be a little confusing at times as the definitions seem to morph a bit with designers!
So a modern sleeve can look very different than the classic version of the same sleeve.
Have a look below to see what we mean!

        

          

            

Pattern - Vogue 1274 - Misses' Top - Lynn Mizono 

            

Contrast this Vogue pattern with modernized dolman sleeves to the historical image of a dolman sleeve below from 1871. Dolman sleeves are set into a very low armscye. Dolman sleeves were very popular during the Civil War, as the low and wide sleeve made the waist look smaller.  

            

              

              Know Your Sleeve

        

        

          

Bell - flares at the end of the sleeve in a bell shape.

          

Cap - a very short sleeve - that is even shorter under the arm.

          

Raglan - this attractive sleeve extends to the neckline. It is commonly seen in baseball jerseys.

          

Set-in Sleeve - this sleeve is set into the armhole or armscye.

          

Kimono - these sleeves are drafted as a part of the bodice and are not separate as set-in sleeves.

            

Gigot or Leg of Mutton - this sleeve flares wide at the top and gets narrower at the wrist. 

If you love sleeves, also check out this fun Truly Victorian pattern of 1890's sleeves.

          

        

        

Great news - there is a beautiful new pattern out by Decades of Style. So exciting! We look forward to Janet Manning's patterns - and to top it all off, it has very cute cap sleeves!

        

          

Pattern - Decades of Style - 1940's Point Made Gown

          

Here is a sample of this dress made up in the store -

          

come by and see it for yourself!

          

The length here is shorter, knee length instead of cocktail length.

          

            

Pattern - Decades of Style - 1940's Point Made Gown

            

This dress has an asymmetrical neckline. The draped bodice has fullness gathered or pleated into the right shoulder. Waist has a sewn in tie that sashes. Medium sewing skill level.

Great Fabrics: silk charmeuse, lightweight crepe, satin, and rayon.

          

        

This cute Diamond Dress pattern is from Decades of Style
Our very own buyer, Victoria Jarvis is modeling it here! Isn't she adorable in this lovely dress?

          

          

          

Pattern - Decades of Style - Diamond Dress

          Adorable sleeve detail with contrasting fabric.

        

        

Pattern - Decades of Style - Diamond Dress

      

    

Still want more sleeve options?

          

Pamela's Patterns necklines and sleeves will get you there!

          

Pattern - Pamela's Pattern 107
New Necklines and Sleeves for The Perfect T-shirt

          This is a great pattern - An add on to her Perfect-T-Shirt Pattern. You get to vary it up with a feminine ballet neck, a sporty boat neck, flattering square neck, and cozy funnel neck. And two separate sleeve  styles, the flare sleeve and bell sleeve!

      

    

Thank you for submitting your questions! Here is one we picked to answer for this newsletter:

          

I was wondering if you could help me with a sewing/pattern alteration problem I'm having. I'm using a Vogue pattern to make a top, and although I'm predominately a size 10, my shoulders are very narrow. As a result I need to alter the pattern so that I don't look like a child playing dress-up in mommy's clothes. I know that I can cut in at the shoulder (I think!), but I am unsure as to how to proceed from there to adapt the armhole and circumference of the sleeve opening.

          

 Please help as I'm tired of making only sleeveless garments!

          

Stonemountain & Daughter Answers:

          

This is great question and problem that can be fixed! Making the shoulder seam shorter to account for your shoulders will enlarge the armscye (the circumference from your armpit and around your shoulder). This will mean that you will need to change the sleeve head and the ease to account for this change, or you won't have enough room for your arm.

          

Unfortunately, it is too difficult to explain how best to compensate for the change because it can all depend on the shape of the sleeve head, the type of fabric and the amount being changed. The best thing we recommend is to take one of our Sew and Fit Labs for Personal Projects (class #250). This is the perfect way to learn how to make the changes needed and receive hand-on assistance from one of our instructors. Its a one day class that meets for three hours and is only $30.

          

We still have availability on the following date:

          

Thursday, March 21 10 am-1 pm

          

Another option is our Fit Lab (class #520) where you create a muslin "test" garment and make adjustments to have it fit you properly, and make those changes to your paper pattern before you cut your fashion fabric, only $30.

          

Wednesday, March 20, 6:30-9:00 pm

          

We also offer Garment Alterations (class # 321) which a great way to learn how to alter garments you already have. The fee is also $30.

          

Thursday, April 30, 10:30 am-1:30 pm

          

            

If you would like to register for any of these classes, you can call us at (510) 845-6106.

            

Again, thank you for your great question.

            

Have a sewing question? Email us and we will choose one to answer in an upcoming enewsletter!

          

Look forward to more sleeve styles in our next newsletter!

      

Tip: 

Fabulous "original" customer Carolyn Soto, who used to shop us when we were in Pacifica, had a great response to our reversible garments e-newsletter: 

              

Reversible tops can also be made with a different finishing technique. Carolyn notes that you can leave the shoulder seams open, sew all the hems - right sides together- then reach in through the opening at the shoulder and pull the outer fabric's right side out through the shoulder (now the two wrong sides will be together). Machine stitch the the shoulder seams of the reverse fabric and finally hand sew the shoulder seam of the outer fabric. Be sure to press the hems, which hides the reverse fabric from view. You can even topstitch the sleeve and shirt hem to hold them in place. Try a contrasting thread for a unique detail!

              

          

Sew It! Reverse It!

Many things in life are not as expected and full of surprises. Here is a fun way to surprise yourself - make two garments in one! Great for trips and when you want a little change. Jump in and reverse your point of view!

Surprisingly enough, a reversible pattern is actually a hard thing to find. There are several vintage patterns available through the internet, but next to none in the current pattern world. The best thing to do is take an existing pattern and make it reversible. This requires little to no changes to the actual pattern, only the way in which you construct it. The patterns below are ones that we recommend and are available at Stonemountain. Pattern - Burda - T-Shirt  - 8220  Patterns that work best for this are blouses without buttons or zipper closures. Also, it is best to use boxier cuts or patterns without darts, as to cut down on any bulk. Dupioni and Habotai are natural together! Tip Using Dupioni and Habotai together makes the garment less prone to wrinkles!  Buy the suggested amount of fabric in two different fabrics. Make sure to buy similar types of fabric (knits with knits, cotton woven with cotton woven). You can use two different types of fabric (for example: charmeuse with rayon) but they should be similar in drape and weight. Pattern - Burda - Top - 7509 These silks would be nice to pair for the Burda Top. When you construct the blouse, you sew the shoulder, sleeves, and sides for each fabric then, with the right sides of the two different fabrics together, sew the necklines, front and back. Pattern - New Look - 6025 - Misses' Tunic or Top Rayon Challis Rayon challis can be paired with our  rayon bamboo, rayon crepe, and rayon linen, and cotton silk. The rayon challis is so pretty - flowers are in! Rayon linen pairs well with cottons, cotton silk, medium weight silks and rayon bamboo and rayon crepe.  Rayon Bamboo and Rayon Crepe  It is best to trim the seam allowance, again, to cut down on bulk. Turn it right side out, then finish/hem the sleeves together (you can turn the seam allowance in on each and hem or slip-stitch them together by hand. Pattern - New Look 6816 - Easy two hour Skirt, Pant, and Knit Top Or trim on 1/4 " shorter than the other, fold the longer one over the shorter, then fold once more and sew it down, creating a bit of trim/boarder on one side of the fabric. Or you can bind them close with bias tape or lace. The same can be done for the bottom hem.

Fabric Care Tips Always treat the fabric before hand as you will the finished garment or project (for example - if you plan to put the finished garment in the dryer, wash and put the fabric in the dryer before you cut) When in doubt dry clean all silk, wool, rayon, linen, decorator fabrics, and certain imported cottons whose dye is unstable to keep it looking it's best. If you choose to dry clean, certain fabrics need to be pre-shrunk by steaming before you cut into your project.  Some dry cleaners can steam press your fabric before you cut. Exception: Some fabric with metallic threads may not be suitable for dry cleaning and will need special care. Look for more fabric care tips in upcoming Stonemountain e-newsletters!

Follow us on Pinterest! A great new place to share customer projects, staff picks, and the latest trunk shows in the store! Go to our Pinterest page - Scissors and Thread to learn to make this cool sewing machine cover! Our Scissors and Thread board has lots of great ideas for your sewing room!