Tuesday, December 22, 2015

Why Independent Patterns - Fabric Lady's 2015 Top Indie Patterns!

As a family owned business, operating in Berkeley for the past 34 years, we love to support other independent businesses, especially when the patterns give us high-quality, unique choices for our wardrobe.

In the past, we have been held hostage to the big companies such as Simplicity and McCall's. Early on in the 1980's they began discounting heavily to the big chains making it very difficult for us to compete with these huge box stores in our own neighborhood - do you remember when they started having 70% off sales? This was part of the reason so many family run fabric stores have gone out of business over the last 3 decades across the United States.

Fast forward to the last few years; many designers have heard our plea for quality patterns that consider our different body types and lifestyles. Now, we have a full selection patterns made by creative and caring people. We love meeting these pattern makers, following them on social media and feeling connected to them when we use their patterns. It brings our sewing community closer together.

Indie Pattern Month and Year 2016 Celebrations
Join us in celebrating the Year of the Independent Pattern in 2016!
We are kicking off the year with a month long celebration in January. Join us each day on our Instagram and Facebook to learn about our independent pattern lines and see what others have created from them.  Stop by our pattern table to view all of the amazing indie pattern lines we stock. You can find them in our store or online - they are all up and available!

To inspire us, I have collected my favorite indie patterns we used this year. Take a look at our round-up and learn more about the patterns in our blogs about them.

I also want to thank my dear friend and collaborator, Laurel of Laurels Quill for all her designing, sewing, blogging and our famous lunches together. The journey would not be nearly as sweet and inspiring without you! What a couple years this has been and I so look forward to the magic of 2016 ahead!


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FABRIC: Textured polyester 'Mello' knit 
WHAT WE LOVE ABOUT IT:
Want a top that you can whip out in a few hours?  We found the Uptown Top, a pattern from our newly added indie pattern company, A Verb for Keeping Warm.  It's a simple top to make, especially if you use a soft knit that you don't need to serge or zig zag the seams. The pattern includes three sizes, but even the smallest size is very generous.
This top is so easy, the neck can be finished with its facing or you could use a simple bias strip. We made our Uptown Top with the band at the bottom, making it long enough to wear with leggings.  You can leave off the band and wear it with pants or jeans as the pattern makers suggest.


READ MORE ABOUT IT HERE: 
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Endless Summer Tunic by A Verb For Keeping Warm


FABRIC: Indian block print batik cotton gauze 
WHAT WE LOVE ABOUT IT:
We are all over the ethnic look for this summer.  Some of our imported gauze fabrics from India are just perfect to get that free-flowing look so prevalent in the 60's and 70's.  And the best part is that they never seem to go out of style and are perfect for any age!
 And since we're gaga over gauze, we thought A Verb for Keeping Warm's "Endless summer Tunic" would be fun to make up in a cotton gauze.

READ MORE ABOUT IT HERE: 
Loving the ethnic fabric and free flowing ease! 

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 Cabin Top by Blueprints For Sewing


FABRIC: Rayon Challis 
WHAT WE LOVE ABOUT IT: 
Blueprints for Sewing patterns are simple, flattering, comfortable, and classic with an artistic edge. They emphasize functionality and simplicity and feature thoughtful embellishments and adaptable cuts. Each pattern takes its inspiration from an architectural style.
The Cabin Top takes its inspiration from the simplicity of a cabin - a humble structure, built to provide shelter from the elements.  Spending time in a cabin "allows the mind to wander," says pattern maker, Taylor.  Thus, the Cabin top is a simple and functional top that will allow you to make it uniquely your own through fabric choice.

READ MORE ABOUT IT HERE:
The Cabin Top 
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 Myrtle by Colette


FABRIC: Rayon Knit 
WHAT WE LOVE ABOUT IT:
I've said it before, I love wearing dresses to work!
Separates are still fun to expand your wardrobe, but it's so much easier to pick out a dress from your closet in the early morning hours. I don't have to think about what goes with what. My biggest decisions are what shoes to wear, tights or not, and do I need a sweater?
Dresses are a great uniform! Find a style that you love and make it up in a variety of fabrics. We love that about sewing - you can really make the clothing you wear your own. 

Our independent pattern designers always have something new to chose from when I'm looking for a fresh frock. I love the variety of styles available these days from indie designers. Each designer and pattern has its own personality and flare to inspire you. The Myrtle dress from Colette looked like such an easy, comfortable and elegant style, and I had the perfect knit in mind for it. 

READ MORE ABOUT IT HERE:
My Sweet Myrtle Dress 
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FABRIC: Woven Cotton 'Peppered Plaid'
WHAT WE LOVE ABOUT IT:
Colette has added to her easy yet visually interesting designs with the Dahlia dress. We love the detailing at the waist. We chose a soft, but large scale plaid for the Dahlia, perfect for my fall season mood.  Be sure to check out the other colors this "Peppered Plaid" comes in!
Our independent designers shine in the dress design arena, so I enjoy featuring their unique dress designs in my work wardrobe.

READ MORE ABOUT IT HERE:

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FABRIC: Cotton Ikats 
WHAT WE LOVE ABOUT IT:
We already made several dresses, a couple of pairs of pants, and even a woven t-shirt. This month we're adding to the "dress revolution" by using Colette Patterns' Laurel dress.   It's a beginner pattern, and several of our staff have already made up this "chic and simple" dress with a semi-fitted shape.
We wanted to make use of coordinating ikat patterns, just to add some cool color blocking to this simple dress.
The dress has a back zipper which allows you to adjust the fit if needed and gives you the opportunity to add a cool contrasting zipper for fun.  It didn't take Laurel long to whip out this dress for a fitting.  I had worn a pair of my favorite leggings that day - I love the combination of dresses and leggings, even in the summer.

READ MORE ABOUT IT HERE: 
Can't Get Enough Ikat?! Neither Can We! 

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FABRIC: Cotton Print 
WHAT WE LOVE ABOUT IT:
One of our favorite sewing pattern lines for retro and vintage fashion is Decades of Style. Though some of the mid-century dress lines have a lot of seaming detail, such as our Object d'Art Dress from last year, these clever folks have come out with an easy sewing line called Decades Everyday.  It's like they read our minds - "Give me a retro look pattern that I can sew in a day and wear every day!"

READ MORE ABOUT IT HERE: 
Modern Take on a Retro Dress - E.S.P. by Decades of Style!

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FABRIC: Cotton + Steel Rayon  
WHAT WE LOVE ABOUT IT:
I chose a soft rayon in a black and white geometric print.  So many of our sewists used two different fabrics - one print or solid for the yoke and a different fabric for the main body of the dress.  I wanted to try making it all in one fabric, but perhaps with a small pop of color. Piping, maybe?
Piping? Yes! We loved this bright chartreuse in 100% cotton. We cut bias strips along the polka dot portion of the fabric then folded and pressed it carefully.

READ MORE ABOUT IT HERE:  
Give This Dress A Chance!

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Datura Blouse by Deer & Doe


FABRIC: Silk Crepe 
WHAT WE LOVE ABOUT IT:
We love this Deer and Doe Datura sleeveless blouse pattern from France. It's not especially difficult to work up even though the pattern envelope's "Advanced" description must have applied to using fabric with a soft hand, such as silk. (A soft woven cotton or rayon would be a great fabric to try first, if you're apprehensive). We will admit that the pattern instructions are very French - brief and to the point - and they perhaps assume that we are indeed advanced sewists. Even Laurel had to interpret the not-so-detailed instructions, applying construction techniques that she has been using for years.

READ MORE ABOUT IT HERE: 
Developing a "Hand" for Silk - 5 Rules to Follow!

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FABRIC: Cotton Cross Dye 
WHAT WE LOVE ABOUT IT:
This month, Grainline Studio's Scout Tee caught our eye. It's not very often that you find a tee pattern that is designed specifically for woven fabrics, so we thought we'd give it a try.
We chose a soft lightweight cotton lawn.  The pattern has a lower back hemline than the front, short cap sleeves and works up in a jiffy. It's the perfect little tee for the beginning sewist.  In fact, we're even teaching a class specifically on this pattern in August and October!

READ MORE ABOUT IT HERE: 
Summer Tees

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FABRIC: Textured Scuba Knit 
WHAT WE LOVE ABOUT IT:
We're still working on our blog about this pattern, but we've already finished two versions of it! It's already a staff favorite and we have a new class featuring this pattern. Check it out!


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FABRIC: Red Ponte Knit
WHAT WE LOVE ABOUT IT:
The dress features princess seams, a keyhole front and cap sleeves - and no zipper! It's not a difficult dress to make at all, but it takes time to do all the top stitching of the seams.  You could eliminate that step, but we think that's what makes the Davie dress special. This is a dress that you could make in one day (start in the morning and be party-ready by 5:00). It took Laurel about 4-5 hours to complete.

READ MORE ABOUT IT HERE: 

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 Hudson Pant by The Sewing Workshop


FABRIC: Cotton Ikat 
WHAT WE LOVE ABOUT IT:
The Sewing Workshop's Hudson Pant is very loose fitting, ankle length pant with an elastic waist which are all factors to make this pant super comfortable. Not having to wear tight-fitting pants for work is certainly appealing.
Best part of these pants other than the ninety minutes it takes to make them? The long darts that go from the calf down to the ankle.  This great detailing keeps the comfortable pants from looking too slouchy.
 
READ MORE ABOUT IT HERE: 
Can't Get Enough Ikat?! Neither Can We!

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FABRIC: Cotton Ikat and Cross Dye 
WHAT WE LOVE ABOUT IT:
I loved this new Victory Pattern, the Chloe No. 1005 Dress.  It is an intermediate level project suitable for woven fabrics like Ikat - other cottons or knits would work too.
We wanted to make our Chloe a little edgy by combining Ikat with a complimentary solid woven fabric. I love the combination of purple and green, especially if the hues are a little "off" color. You might think that this combination doesn't occur in nature, but it does. So why not combine these gorgeous olive Ikat prints with a solid purple woven?  Even though the purple does not occur in the Ikat, it doesn't matter.  The purple gives the olive Ikat that pop of color that will make my Chloe dress unique!

READ MORE ABOUT IT HERE:  

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 Satsuki by Victory Patterns


FABRIC: Silk Knit 
WHAT WE LOVE ABOUT IT:
Here's another of my favorite patterns - Victory's Satsuki dress. We've made it as both a dress and a top.  I love the comfort and style of this design. (Are you starting to see a pattern here - "comfort" and "ease?") But I also love the femininity of this design.  Whatever your body type, it will be flattering.
So why mess with success? I found this wonderful silk knit during one of my buying trips and I loved the way the print almost had an ombre look.  I immediately thought of the Satsuki dress.

READ MORE ABOUT IT HERE: 

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Check out our classes featuring some of these awesome patterns!

Thanks for being a fabric lover and following my blog. 
I would love to hear from you about patterns and your projects!

love and creativity,
Suzan



Wednesday, December 16, 2015

My Sweet Myrtle Dress

I've said it before, I love wearing dresses to work!
Separates are still fun to expand your wardrobe, but it's so much easier to pick out a dress from your closet in the early morning hours. I don't have to think about what goes with what. My biggest decisions are what shoes to wear, tights or not, and do I need a sweater?

Dresses are a great uniform! Find a style that you love and make it up in a variety of fabrics. We love that about sewing - you can really make the clothing you wear your own.
Even in the fall and winter months, I prefer sleeveless and short sleeved dresses for work around the store.  I can always throw a sweater or light jacket (like the Morris Blazer from Grainline Studio) over it if I get chilly or layer them with long sleeved t-shirts. Fabric choices are simple too: cottons, rayons, and knits are among my go-to choices for dresses. Since our weather here in Berkeley is so temperate, I usually opt for wearing layers, but warmer fabrics like wools can be made up into beautiful dresses as well. 

Our independent pattern designers always have something new to chose from when I'm looking for a fresh frock. I love the variety of styles available these days from indie designers. Each designer and pattern has its own personality and flare to inspire you. The Myrtle dress from Colette looked like such an easy, comfortable and elegant style, and I had the perfect knit in mind for it. 

I chose a beautiful, lightweight rayon/lycra knit in black with a white ditsy floral print. Knits are so versatile and I love that this could be worn at work during the day and then dressed up in the evening for any occasion. Easy to wear and care for, and available in more colors and prints than you can imagine, we love knits at Stonemountain! Visit our website to see a selection of our knits.


The front of Myrtle is self-lined, making the draped front neckline fall into place beautifully.  The bodice back is faced with bias tape at the neck and armholes. Laurel chose a red binding to contrast. We love adding design elements like this wherever we can to makes the garment unique. Isn't that the point of sewing for yourself - to make something that you won't see everyone else wearing?

The beginner pattern instructions were a little difficult to follow when it came time to add the elastic around the waist. Since there didn't seem to be enough length in the bodice to cover the 1" wide elastic called for in the pattern, Laurel added extra wide bias tape to the bodice to create a casing for the elastic - in red of course! If you are a more experienced sewist, sometimes you have to go back to what you know when it comes time to following pattern directions.



 Love the drape of this neckline! So very feminine.



The whole dress drapes perfectly...
maybe tights? Boots?


This Myrtle Dress is perfect for rayon or silk knits because of the draped bodice.  You may also want to consider a soft rayon or cotton challis or even a lightweight lawn if your prefer sewing on woven fabrics.  Colette even has a free download that shows you how to execute this pattern in a woven! Whatever you chose, it needs to drape softly, so avoid crisp or heavy fabrics.

Another great pattern from Colette. I can't wait to wear this dress through winter and into the warmer months!

Cheers to Sewing!!!
Suzan


Tuesday, December 15, 2015

The Cabin Top

Blueprints for Sewing patterns are simple, flattering, comfortable, and classic with an artistic edge. They emphasize functionality and simplicity and feature thoughtful embellishments and adaptable cuts. Each pattern takes its inspiration from an architectural style.

The Cabin Top takes its inspiration from the simplicity of a cabin - a humble structure, built to provide shelter from the elements.  Spending time in a cabin "allows the mind to wander," says pattern maker, Taylor.  Thus, the Cabin top is a simple and functional top that will allow you to make it uniquely your own through fabric choice.

The Cabin is a basic, flattering shape, enhanced with French darts and a box pleat in the back. The neckline, sleeves, and hemline are finished with bias tape, either out of a package or self made.


I chose a vibrant black and white geometric rayon challis print to work up in this pattern, as an active print goes well with this simple design.  Laurel used basic single fold bias tape to finish the edges, turning it completely to the under side so it does not show (as opposed to binding the edges with bias that will show, like for contrast). The pattern calls for the bias tape to act as a binding around the neckline, sleeves and hemline, so the black binding would show through this tow colored print.  Because this fabric was so "silky", we opted to make it more dressy by using the tape like a facing to hold the shape of the neckline.


The back features a narrow yoke at the shoulders. We cut the yoke on the fabric's crossgrain to give greater interest to the back of this top and show off its seams.  The box pleat in the back is secured with a tiny stitched triangle. 


French darts create a beautiful semi-fitted slim silhouette.


Just to show you how you can make this simple style your very own, let's look at Laurel's version of the Cabin Top. She chose three fabrics, all in rayon. She made her own bias tape and chose to use it as a binding to help "ground" the business of the two other fabric choices and yet contrasting so that the overall artistically look she is going for is achieved. She also added some design elements just to have all the fabrics play off each other.

A triangle of contrasting fabric  int he front, mimicking the back, and the cutest buttons... 


...the small triangle of fabric in the back in the contrasting print...
  

....makes for a uniquely artistic Cabin Top!

We can also see this top in a color block of solid fabrics  The solid colors would really highlight the pattern's design. So many possibilities!

Colette and Zanikan hanging out in the sewing studio. 



Creatively yours,
Suzan

Wednesday, December 2, 2015

Too Early for a Red Holiday Dress? Never!

Every fitting and planning day at Stonemountain with Laurel and our staff, there is a frenzy of fabric bolts being brought to the cutting table for my consideration for the FabricLady's wardrobe. I have been known to get into my comfortable design aesthetic:  similar pattern choices and familiar fabric colors and textures. That's why it's so great to have input from people who may see you differently than the image and perceptions that you hold about yourself and your personal style.

Me (in front of the mirror): "But I never wear red."

Them: "But look in the mirror. See? You can wear this color!"

Me: "Mmmm...I don't know...."

Them: "Come on Zan...a cute little red dress?  Everybody looks good in that!!"




I succumbed to the persuasion.  After all, I consider my staff to be rather fashion forward, so if they say I look good in red, I'm all in. And frankly with the holidays approaching, perhaps I could use a "little red dress?"  The fabric they chose for me is a soft lightweight ponte knit and the pattern, Sewaholic Patterns' "Davie" (#1503).


The dress features princess seams, a keyhole front and cap sleeves - and no zipper! It's not a difficult dress to make at all, but it takes time to do all the top stitching of the seams.  You could eliminate that step, but we think that's what makes the Davie dress special. This is a dress that you could make in one day (start in the morning and be party-ready by 5:00). It took Laurel about 4-5 hours to complete.

We also wanted to use a jersey bias tape for the neckline and sleeves.  We love this finish, but the best laid plans don't always work out. Laurel used a stretch stitch on this ponte knit and the first application of the bias tape didn't pass muster - totally wonky and uneven! Stretch stitching is excruciating to rip out, so she ended up cutting off the entire neckline and attached bias tape (we love that she's not afraid to admit mistakes!) The second attempt was better.


Don't forget that when you're using a stretch stitch on your knits, the top stitching should have some give to it as well.  Laurel adjusted the stretch stitch on her machine ever so slightly for the top stitching. (Don't you love that little keyhole at the neckline?)


Because of the misstep, there was not enough of the jersey tape to finish off the armholes. Necessity is the mother of invention, and so why not just make a traditional facing?  On cap sleeve armholes, the curve can be pretty severe and a self-made bias strip out of a ponte knit can get unwieldy on the curves.

Making a facing using the dress pattern is pretty easy:

1) Before you sew the side seams up, lay the open dress on top of two layers of fabric, making sure all the wrinkles are smoothed out.


Cut around the armhole/cap sleeve. Remove the dress from the two layers of fabric beneath.

2) Mark the facing at about 2 inches in width, and then cut the facing out.


3.)  Serge the edge of the facing and then join the right sides together and sew up the facing at the side seams. Sew up the side seams of your dress and then apply the finished facing to the dress, right sides together.


Trimming the facing helps remove bulk...and don't forget to clip your curves!

5) When you add a facing to a garment, it's always a good idea to "understitch" along the top edge of the facing - this will help the facing lie flat.



6.)  Once you have completed the row of understitching, turn your facing to the inside and secure it to the bodice.  Because Sewaholic's Davie features top stitching, Laurel top-stitched the facing down, just as she had done with the neckline bias tape.

When top stitching along a curve, be sure to let your fabric flow under the feed dogs, keeping the curve in tact.  You will need to slow down if you want it to be even! Laurel will often use the edge of the presser foot itself as her guide for the row of top stitching.


Three or four bobbins later (a lot of top stitching!), the dress is finished.



The Davie is short, so I'm thinking some great black tights.  And if I want to wear it at work - Boots!
On fitting day, I just happened to be wearing both.



We noticed the armholes were a little big - a recurring problem for me.  Note to self - adjust the shoulders to raise the armholes next time.  But since it's a little late for that, we decided to just doing some ripping and repair...ugh (Laurel's favorite thing!!).


Looks so adorable with this black stretch denim Grainline Studio's Morris jacket. I guess I'm becoming a believer in that "everybody can wear red!"


Thank you all for joining me on this adventure - it's not just about sewing clothes, but inspiring each other with our creations. I love hearing from you when you share about your projects and even better when you wear them into the store!

We are so lucky to have so many indie pattern lines to explore and choose from. For us at Stonemountain & Daughter, this is the future. All of the bigger pattern lines now sell directly and discount to the consumers…are Fabric Stores a thing of the past? 

There are many new questions facing the indie Fabric Store as we look to the future. If you are interested, perhaps I will share more of my thoughts as we navigate all these changes while staying in business! 

We love our sanctuary here in Berkeley and hope that you continue to support us and all the indie fabric stores that are left.

Happy Sewing,
Suzan


Monday, November 30, 2015

Bias Tape Heaven - A Clean and Polished Neckline Worthy of a Pro!

Many of the tops and dresses today suggest using commercial bias tape or fabric bias strips to finish off the neckline or armholes. There are many different ready-made bias tapes to choose from, though typically beginning sewists go right for the Wrights display in the fabric store. This hands-down favorite is very convenient and comes in a variety of colors, but it doesn't always work for sheer and soft fabrics or some knits.


As we advance in our sewing skills, we look for other alternatives. Cutting your own bias strips sometimes requires purchasing extra fabric and they can be tricky to get uniform.


We found a great sheer stretch "ribbon" by Renaissance Ribbons to try on our Burda Tee 7645, which we are working up in a creamy off-white ponte knit.  (Cutting bias strips of this knit would probably be too bulky when sewed to the neckline of the top.)








The ribbon is applied to the very edge of the neckline and sewn in place. Super easy!


Once the ribbon is sewn on the neckline, a quick turn under and 
some top stitching makes this tee-shirt neckline clean and polished.



We used the same ribbon on the armholes.  The results are a finished neckline worthy of a Pro!



What a year it's been for sewists and fabric lovers! I hope you have enjoyed seeing all the garments we are inspired to create here for my blog. Many of the garments are up in the store for you to see.

Please stop by when you can and see what's new in patterns and fabric!

Our classes are up on our website also if you wish to advance your skills or finally get sewing again!

Are you receiving our email newsletter from Stonemountain & Daughter Fabrics? If you wish to, please sign up on this link to receive them. We send them out every 3 weeks, and they have discount coupons!

Happy Sewing!
Suzan

Future blog: Mytle Dress by Colette and Morris Blazer by Grainline!